Cooking Sous Vide & cooking slow.. Part II

My previous experiment on Sous vide cooking was with Pork---mostly cooked & served well-done, due to the fear of trichinosis. Even, I prefer well-done, well-done to the extent, mostly dry--however, my tests on cooking pork, sous-vide changed the complete outlook towards cooking Pork--well-done & juicy too...& the subtle tenderness.
But this time, I wanted to cook beef. I always wanted to cook short-ribs--abundant fat, meaty & tender & the resultant meat will be juicy. Using the sous vide technique, I tried cooking short-rib. However, my concept was reproducing something from French cuisine & then do a contemporary presentation. So, it was "Boeuf Bourguignon"--braised beef cubes[short rib cubes] in red wine--wine ideally from Burgundy---with an array of root vegetables & also mushrooms--to be served with noodles/pasta or even spatzle--the german dumplings.

I used the sous vide technique cooking short ribs of 200 gm each & using a marinade---Yes, an unusual marinade which is also its braising liquid[Yes, like Sauerbraten]. Its actually a reduction of "Red wine", I used Cabernet Sauvignon, root vegetables[carrot, onion, leek, celery, shallots] an assortment of herbs[rosemary, thyme, parsley], spices[black peppercorn only!!], mushroom trimmings[I mean wild mushrooms], jus[yes, homemade] & finally salt[ yes, a very good salt, not your shitty table salt, but invest in good salt--Maldon salt or any Kosher salt-- I used Fleur de Sal].

The cooking process
The braising liquid, aforesaid, was slipped into individual ziplock bags--with 200 gm of trimmed beef shortribs & properly sealed--taking out as much air I could [I dont have a vacuum pack machine at home] & allowing them to swim in a hot water bath of 55.1 Deg C--Remember, my desired internal temperature is 55.1 deg C--the medium-rare texture of the meet. However, short rib has a lot of collagen, for which one might opt for a temperature above 60 Deg C--for the collagen & fat to dissolve & make the meat more delicious. The cooking process was for entire 24 hours.
After cooking, repack the beef in the same liquid & keep until to ready to use-refrigerated.
The finishing touch
Beef Bourguignon is served traditionally, with an array of root vegetables & vegetables of the earth--mushrooms, spinach as I said before. So before service[yes, for my own service], I seared the meat in a hot pan [to caramelise, thus improving the taste] & cooked the sides.Et Voila..Beef Bourguignon ala Sous vide..is ready!!! :)

The Trauma.... Part I

The Trauma...Part I
In college....

Date: May 27, 2006
Time: Roughly around 13:30 hrs
Place: IHM, Kolkata

Indranil came to me, "Gaurav, the ATKT results are out [ATKT-->if you get a back in any of your subjects, in this case, it was for the first year]".
I asked him, "Is it???What is my marks??Did I pass???" I was worried. This was a do or die for me. Even I fail in one or two subjects in second year, it will matter less--but if I fail again in the first year paper--I'll lose a year in college...a year drop-out in college.

I rushed to the notice board, to see my marks...keeping my fingers crossed.
The result read 35 out of 100. I verified again, "35".
Oh shit....that means I flunked!!!!
I went to Soumitra sir, aka Sammy and came back without any rays of hope. Then I ran to Raja sir...I assume he understood my condition..empathised, but without any rays of hope again. I was praying to God...I dont want to lose a year. People say "If you want to know the value of year, ask a student who lost one year...", it is so true...!!

Now what to tell my parents???That I will be a drop-out..for a person, who has never been a drop out before...who were always in good books. But I had to tell...I was too afraid of the consequences.

Having lost one year [since I passed in the second year papers...but couldn't attend college for 1 year, until I pass in "Hotel Engineering" through re-test] I had nothing to do at home. What to do??I cannot be a fulltime astrologer [a hobby then, when I was growing strong] since my parents will never approve it. I was taking suggestions then. Callcentres or BPOs...a place where I can improve my communication skills & make some quick money. So I started applying....
First one was "Hutchison Essar", now "Vodafone". Pay was comparatively low..but beggars cant be choosers. I was selected for the personal interview. I couldn't tell them that I flunked in my exams & I said, "My classes will be started from date X". The HR asked me, "How will you work then, if you have to attend classes ...I know the classes of hospitality management--you'll have some vital practical & theory classes". My application was not forwarded.

Next one was "Dell", located in Hydrabad, which means, I will have to relocate from Kolkata. I had no problem in relocation, since they were providing accommodation. I passed in the preliminary test & then I was selected for the personal interview. After a brief introduction about myself, the interviewer asked me, "Gaurav, what would you like do after completion of your course??". I proudly said, "I want to join hotels as a chef!!". I messed it up...bigtime!! Eliminated immediately.

One more hope...and it was with Wipro. I was eliminated in the second round. I was getting frustrated ....Tried at 3 places with no success. I went to visit my the then mentor, Mr. Raja Sadhukhan a lecturer in our college. "Sir, what to say in the interviews, that I am still in college??", I asked him. His prompt reply, "Tell them you are a college drop out & not going to attend anymore", he added, "Who is going to check that??".

There was a ray of hope when Ma Foi consultants called me up for a possible employment with HSBC. HSBC BPO was perhaps the best BPO in the city, offering a decent pay, benefits & facilities. I passed in the qualifying rounds & then headed to HSBC GSC[in Salt Lake]. The first round was a group discussion, followed by a rapid fire round, & then an interview with the HR & final round with Card Services, to see if I am fit to be a sales agent. I guess I couldn't make enough ....& after two days, Ma Foi called me up & said, "Congratulations Gaurav!!You have been offered a position of Customer Service Executive in HSBC GSC[Group Service Centre]." I was feeling great. One issue has been solved,securing a job. But next problem..what shall I tell people, that I have lost a year in college. My social life started shrinking & rarely I used to go out. I was afraid people will ask me that inevitable, unavoidable question, "Your classes, campus interviews, college etc". Though, I was selected by HSBC, but was not given any date of joining. Everyday seemed to be too big for me to live. Getting up in the morning, followed by astrology reading in the forums & then studying for the retest, chatting with friends online...then sleep!!! A regular boring schedule, often interrupted by visiting a pub, drinking alone & then getting the hangover. My savings started decreasing, often spent on buying some books on astrology. Gradually, I turned out to be an unsocial creature, my only company was my best friend, Samrat...till I joined HSBC on Sept. 12, 2006.

This was a traumatic period of my life..a period I dreaded the most.People who have gone through such stages can only empathise with me...& can feel it...
 But I was not aware that there were many more to come [& more in future] & I will write on this ...soon.!!

Belated Valentine's Menu....

It was difficult for me to make out sometime & write a new menu for the day dedicated to lovers [I wonder sometimes, if there was a day dedicated only for the singles]. One of my last menus, dedicated for the partners was cook for your dream date--fortunately, one of the followers of this blog, tried this out for her husband [she lamented poorly, if she had tried this out for her lover...before getting married...]and thanked me...and now its time for others I guess...to try out something. Since this year, I didn't work on Valentine's day--I announced an open offer...I will cook for a couple...3 course menu @ only DHS 500!!! Unfortunately...I never got a chance to cook for, but for myself!!

Anyways, the menu that I have planned doesn't have too much of the so called "red" for valentine's[as other people depict]. I understand that "red" is the color of passion, but does that mean all your food has to have something in red???Can't you express your passion through, oysters, lobsters, passionfruit [aphrodisiacs in other words]???

Here is my offer...

Beetroot Salad with Hazelnuts & Raspberry

Lemon Dressing, Pureed Pistachio

-

My Surf & Turf

Lobster Ravioli, Slow-cooked pork belly, Wild Mushroom Jus, Asparagus

-

Passion

Warm Passionfruit Curd, Passionfruit & Milk Chocolate Jelly, Passionfruit Pumice Stone

Stories behind each foods...
Beetroot Salad
I saw this salad in one of the episodes of "No reservations" by Anthony Bourdain. Beetroot & Raspberry may sound odd---but combines well.
My Surf & Turf
It just came to my mind....I had some slow cooked pork belly lying with me...cooked sous vide at 70 Deg C for 8 hours. How about making a lobster ravioli & serve with it?? It goes well too..
Passion
It needs a lot of mise-en place, lots of running here & there.It needs patience. But the end result is well-worth. I made a jelly of milkchocolate with passionfruit & you may ask why. Well, the answer is to cut down the tartness of the passionfruit.I tried it once, making it in a professional kitchen. It is really good. The pumice stone???Well, I borrowed this idea from the concept of frozen foam.

Enjoy reading.... :)

Campus Interviews..

"What is his name, sitting next to you?", the professor aka Baap of IHM asked a student.
"His name is ......., " the student replied.
"And what relationship do you have with him?", Baap asked the same student.
"Sir, he is my best friend....", the student said.
"Well, will he be your friend during campus interviews also???", this was Baap's third question & hopefully the last question.
There was silence...pindrop silence in the Students' Dining Hall, abbreviated to S.D.H.

----

Campus interviews are perhaps, the most threatening period for a student, who was struggling to reach this stage. Its a period---do or die. Either you get it...or you don't. You fight for it...you win it...if you dont, you lose it to someone else. No friendship during the interviews, during group discussion. If you are fortunate enough, you can work with your best friends...
When it comes to my Campus interviews...I will share my part of the story..the most crucial stages, I went through. Crucial to the point, that I used to sleep for only 3 hrs those days...Personal problems, problems in family, low attendance in college & work..many many things etc.
If I recollect properly, the first campus interview I appeared for ...was for Kingfisher. In any case, I was never interested to join any airlines for a ground staff or whatever. I was interested to have an experience for the "interviews" & "group discussion". I was poor in group discussions..most of the times, when my turn came,  I was put off by some other "friend", who tried to establish his fact was correct & ultimate..and ultimately, the entire group was disqualified.
After that...it was with Oberois. If you get a job as OCLD [as a management trainee], its like a dream come true. If you dont get it...you have some other options....or may be nothing. We went to The Oberoi Grand, Kolkata. The then Training Manager, Mr. Deepak Malhotra greeted us & we had a first round. It was introducing each other, career aspirations. Thank god..to my english[I think it was good] & my pronunciation, I was shortlisted for the next round...when it was already 2 pm. Time for lunch...& when my turn came for the next round...it was almost 7:30 pm. I was getting bored in the ballroom, there were not enough good looking girls though...to chat!!
Finally, my turn came. This turn is like you make it...or you break it. Either you get shortlisted for OCLD...or operational trainee.. or simply put...kicked out.
I dont remember the chef's name now...he was a Sous Chef, a muslim guy. First he asked me about myself [now this is so cliched!!] & finally the place where from, I did my training. When I said, I did from ITC Sonar, he started asking me which outlet & what was the most selling dish. "Murg Malai Kabab", I said.
He started shooting, "What is it made of?", I started guessing...and said, "Yellow chilly powder". He was surprised, "Yellow chilly powder??or white pepper powder". I was strong, saying, "Chef, it was yellow chilly powder", it seemed I couldn't convince him. Then he asked me, "What is Shah Jeera in english?". I was good in European cuisine and equally dumb in Indian cuisine. A person who can tell you the basic gravies & some talks on North Indian food...but when it came to basics...I was a disaster. "I dont know", was my humble reply. "What is Kalonji?", his next question. Complete surrender. "I dont know", I said.
"So, which cuisine are you focussing on, Indian??", this was his question then, when he found me dumb in the indian section.
"Chef, I am into Continental", I was ready for him to ask me questions on Continental Cuisine.
Then it was my turn to answer all questions, correctly, to his questions. I guess, he was asking me questions from all around the world, but Indian. I was smart enough, to showcase my knowledge too...Moroccan, Spanish, Italian, French & many many stuff..
His final throw, "If I shortlist you for an operational trainee position, will you come for a food trial?"
I, having no offers in hand, said, "Yes".
"Ok..what will you prepare?", he asked me.
I gave him a three course menu & he asked me, how shall I prepare each of them. And then, I left for the day.

***

I was ready after two days..for the food trial. I reached The Oberoi Grand, Kolkata, located in the busiest part & the most happening part of the city, with its grandeur & old fashioned form...existing for over a century. After having a brief interaction with the then Executive Chef, Chef George K. George, from Kerala, I started off in the La terrace kitchen. Thank god..the kitchen was not busy enough, but when I look back from now, my menu was nowhere close to contemporary menus. Neither, it was expected from a fresh college passout. A person, having no experience in working in any professional kitchen, it was difficult for me, to run from one kitchen to another. My soup was "Cream of Mushroom with Ginger", salad was "Russian Salad", & Main course was "Grilled Chicken Aurore, Aurore sauce, steamed broccoli & Duchesse potatoes," apart from Hollandaise sauce, which everyone had to prepare to show the culinary skill.
I was fighting with my overcooked...undercooked potatoes, to mash them. I was afraid, my hollandaise was a failure & my chicken was getting overcooked.
Finally, the presentation time came. If I was selected, it would have been grace of God...if not, I was ready for it.
"What soup is this?", Chef George asked me.
"Its Cream of Mushroom with ginger", I said, my voice was weak.
"Aah...that means Indian style," He asked me with a smile.
"Umm...I mean I saw this recipe in BBC", I said, quite fumbling...giving an excuse.
"If people can become chefs after watching BBC, why do we need catering colleges?", he said.
I had no answer to his question. He tasted the other foods, and said nothing. After tasting the food of the other mates, informed us to have Lunch in their employee cafetaria & later meet him in person.
We were waiting outside to meet, after the lunch. He called me in, "Gaurav, Is this your first trial?".
I said,"Yes".
"What do you think of it?"
"It was not good, "I said.
"Well, I am sorry, we wont be able to proceed your application any further. Its not that you cannot work in kitchen, but it is not as per Oberoi standards".
I was expecting such outcome, "Thats ok Chef...Thank you.!!" I left his office...

The next one...was, well...with The Taj. It is a game...it is a game by Amitava K. Sen, a senior lecturer of third year classes[generally] & also placement-in charge. If you are in his good books, if you have praised him a lot[Butter..get me right, Butter with some nasal tone]you are for The Taj. If you are not, the end period is not for you.
The Taj conducted a written exam, on the basics followed by a Group Discussion. I said a few words in the GD...but in the end...disqualified. Nothing much to say in this case...
Next came The Park group of Hotels. The GD was fine...I said only one line...& was quickly shortlisted for the Personal Interview with Mr.Siraj Mukherjee, the then Training Manager of The Park Group of Hotels. Once I entered his room, his first question, "Gaurav, which cuisine are you focussing in??".
"Continental", was my reply, not knowing whether I should be specific.
"Continental...well, be specific...French, Italian, Spanish....??" he asked me.
"Italian, to be specific", I fumbled.
Then started a rapid fire round...perhaps, the best rapid fire round, when it comes to interviews. He was shooting me questions...& I was able to tackle him--a few mistakes here & there. I forgot..what was scamorza... :(
After a couple of days, he sent the results & I was shortlisted as a Kitchen Management Trainee[subjected to further interviews in Mumbai], but never forget this was the same person, who rejected my application for Industrial trainee, in December, 2004.

---

Campus interviews were becoming a daily thing...some happy faces..some unhappy faces used to appear at the end of the interviews...Some got what they wanted..Some never got what they wanted, & Some got what they never wanted...Some people, who will backstab....some green eyes...some surprised faces...and so many...
For someone like me...who doesn't have a Godfather in Hospitality industry...getting an offer during Campus interviews was difficult. I didn't learn the art of flattering, which would have secured me a better offer--may be the most coveted position of Kitchen Management trainee. Neither, I was an excellent or outstanding student in college.

***

I remember, attending the Pizza Hut interviews. I succeeded in the GD & then personal interview. I was rejected in the Personal Interview...perhaps, the personnel manager, assumed I am meant for Kitchen..not for service.
Next was Hyatt..I succeeded in the GD, followed by a psychometric test..in which I passed & followed by a personal Interview. I succeeded in that too...offered a position of Commis chef position in the gigantic Grand Hyatt, Mumbai. But salary???I guess, it was peanuts back then.
Next & perhaps, the final one I attended was "The Imperial Hotel", in New Delhi, a majestic hotel in the capital city of India for over 70 years. I succeeded in the GD...followed by an interview with the Personnel Manager. He was impressed with my vast knowledge in Italian cuisine...& shortlisted me for the further rounds in Delhi....a meeting with the Exe. Chef. Which ultimately, never happened...he left that hotel!!!

This was a pain...cracking the interviews in the college...The Park group of hotels didn't hire any student from our college that year...ITC Park Sheraton didn't revert back on what happened to the food trial we gave in ITC Park Sheraton...so ultimately, I had no other option than joining Grand Hyatt, Mumbai...for a meagre basic salary!!!

An evening in Olypub...

"Gaurav...let's go to Olypub", Kaustav was telling me, once we were done with our classes.
"Fine..but where the hell it is??", I asked him.
"It's in Park Street--let's boose", Kaustav added. Two more members of this crime--Joydeep & Joydev. The date, I faintly remember, it was somewhere in the end of January of 2005...from when, officially I started "boozing"....
___
Well, to describe Olypub, it will be real difficult. People swear that nowhere you will get the same ambience like Olypub. The people...mostly dropping in after college, after work, in the midst of work for some *quick relief*,  or just for a casual affair. Olypub is a place for everyone & for everything..
Those waiters, overworked...looking for more & more tips..even if by the means of extortion..
Those same old glasses for everything--beer, water, liqours & even for the check..
Those dingy, shabby getup of the resto-bar...
Even,I started eating beef[the low quality of Indian beef, compared to Angus, Kobe etc] from this place...
___
No sooner, did Kaustav initiate me in the "booze" business, I became a fan of this place. Frequenting this place after classes in college, in the weekends, after exams...or sometimes, during fests etc.
I went to Olypub this time, on January 16th, 2010 to meet two of my friends...Joydeep, who stays in the city & William--who is a NRI like me.
"Gaurav, dont puke 4 bottles after you drink one bottle of beer", was Joydeep's cautious statement, when I ordered one bottle of Budweiser, alongwith Chicken ala kiev[Kaustav's favorite], whilst Joydeep had a pint of Kingfisher and William had whisky--shared a mixed grill[my favorite too..but too much fat!!!].
It has really been a longtime...since I stepped out of this dingy, little place..the ambience has changed drastically...we've changed, the patrons of Olypub has changed..and so are the waiters[One of my friends used to call them as "Dushman", meaning, "Enemy"...his justification,"If he had been my friend, would he have charged us???"..we all agreed to his conclusion...perhaps...]
Our discussion over there was mostly based on our work...a little a personal life...and ended up with dirty talks....who kissed whose ass...who slept with who...whilst William indulged in more & more alcohol.
At around 9:45, we had to call off...settling the "bill"/ check, whilst, the waiter had the same poor attitude---charging us extra for tips--with which we never agreed--same life before & then headed to find a cab--yes, too reach home, though William was reluctant to go home rather wanted to go somewhere else, for physical gratification.

Tasting Menus in Vacation....II

There was yet one more menu, that I wanted to cook for my mother & brother. It was a little elaborate--a five course meal. The meal kick started with a soup, followed by a pasta, main course, cheese course & finally a trio of desserts.
It was a challenge for me...as I thoughtfully planned this menu...focussing on ingredients, generally easy to get...easy to cook...but on the next level....many things, I was trying till I put them on the plate together...eventually, they still need to be refined!!
Here is that menu...

Cappuccino di Funghi

with Wild Mushroom

-

Ravioli di Zucca

Pumpkin ravioli in tomato-basil sauce & parmesan foam

-

Branzino Locale

Fresh water seabass, green pea mousse, poeled potato, Sicilian pesto

-

Selezione di Formaggi

Brie, Camembert, Goat Cheese...served with apple & walnut relish

-

Trio di Citrus

Warm Lemon-Almond pudding, Lime pannacotta & orange-chocolate fondant with blueberry sauce & marinated strawberries

Recipes???If you ask for it... :)

Tasting Menus in Vacation....1

I planned my menus a week before I went for vacation. Ommissions, editions, modifications & all sorts whilst keeping in mind that I will cook something unique, something different, which my "guinea pigs"[meaning, those who will taste my food].
So, here it is, the Tasting Menu #1, I did for my mom & my brother.

Creme de carrote

avec foam de orange

-

Ravioli de Mozzarella

Buffalo Mozzarella, anchovies, olives & basil

-

Poulet Roti Forestiere

Wild Mushroom & Bacon fricasse, Saffron Mashed potato, Port wine glaze, buttered brussels sprouts

-

Cinnamon Pot de creme

with Spiced Apple chutney

Recipes:
Cream of Carrot [For 4 people]
For the soup:
Carrot-200 gm[medium dices--middle rib removed if possible]
Shallots-30gm[finely chopped]
Garlic-10 gm[finely chopped]
Butter-20 gm
Cream- 30 ml[hot]
Salt & Pepper- to taste
Vegetable stock- 400 ml[hot]
For the Foam
Orange Zest- of two oranges
Cream- 100 ml
Soy Lecithin-1/2 tsp
Method:
For the foam
1. Scald the cream with the orange zest. Season a little & allow to infuse.Keep aside.
For the Soup
1. Saute shallots followed by garlic in butter, till lightly colored. Add in the carrots & saute for sometime, till the carrots are lightly colored. Season with salt-pepper.
2. Add in the vegetable stock--barely covered & simmer till carrots just fall apart. Blend to a puree.
3. Reheat the puree of the carrots & adjust the consistency. Season the soup. Once ready for service, add in the cream & check the seasoning.
Assembling:
Pour the soups in hot espresso cups with a breadsticks. Blend the cream for foam to get the foam. Collect the foam with a spoon & put it on top of the soups. Serve immediately

--
Ravioli di Mozzarella[For 4 people]
For the ravioli:
Flour-150 gm
Eggs, whole-2
Egg yolk-1 no
Salt- To taste
Buffalo Mozzarella,fresh- 250 gm
Olive Oil-1 tbsp
For the sauce:

Anchovies, mashed- 1 tsp
Garlic-1/2 clove
Olive Oil- 20 ml
Butter, frozen- 20 gm
Cherry tomatoes- 100 gm
Kalamata Olives- 20 gm
Basil- 15 gm, chopped
Method:
For the pasta:
1.Make a well in the center of the flour. Drop in the eggs & mix in slowly until you get a moist, smooth dough. Add in the salt & oil. Keep on kneading till you get a smooth dough and your hands starts paining. Cover & allow to rest for at least 30 mins.
2. Roll out the dough to the desired thickness[dont make too dough, or your pasta will break, when you stuff & roll].
3. Cut the buffalo mozzarella into sizes of 20 gm each[you will get 12 pieces].
4. Arrange them neatly on the rolled pasta, keeping spaces in between. Put another sheet on top & them into 12 raviolis each. Press the edges, while removing any air inside. Blanch the pasta for 30 seconds & keep aside till ready for service.
For the sauce:
1. Heat the oil in a pan, add in anchovies followed by garlic. Toss in the cherry tomatoes, olives & basil. Cook for sometime, till you get the flavours, add in the salt & pepper. Finish off with butter.
Final assembling:
Blanch the pasta again for 30 seconds & toss them in the sauce. Serve hot.

Want the rest of the recipes???
Email me.... :)