Friday, March 12, 2010

Kitchen Characters....

Character Sketch:Chef P.N.

"Wow", "Excellent" & "Good"--perhaps these are the three words Chef P. used the most. I remember talking to him over phone, in the end of January, 2009, when I was desperately looking for job. After a light conversation, I assumed his looks-- a person, middle-aged, can be fair in complexion, possibly will have a moustache, intellectual & may be wears glasses!!

Date:Feb, 3, 2009
Time:10:00 am
Place:Undisclosed hotel,Chennai, India
I entered the Main kitchen, through the IRD [In-room dining] section, wearing a hairnet [too less hair to wear a hairnet!!] & walked upto the Chef's office. Well, contrary to my assumption on his looks, he didn't seem to have moustache, rather clean shave & secondly, he doesn't wear glasses. He asked me whether I had breakfast or no..I said "Yes" [Only a cup of tea...but I was hungry also!!!!!] & then I gave him my menu for the food trial. He said, thats fine...& then  I started. For my food trial, I made "Mushroom Cappuccino Soup", "Warm Pasta Salad", "Grilled fish with Pomegranate & Cream Reduction, Pommes de terre Ecrasse, & buttered Asparagus" & "White Chocolate Pannacotta with glazed strawberries".

At the end of the trial..he started tasting the food. He had a sip of the Soup from the espresso cups & said "Wow!!!!".
Rest of the foods he had in the restaurant with some guest & then gave me his feedback. He wanted the foods to be hot...instant service for ala carte & lots of ideas on plating & said he liked my food!!! Finally his question, "When can you join??" I replied, "After 1 month!!" He got pissed off, at least that was his facial expression but said, "Okk...I want to see you after a month or sooner"..

I joined after a month--I remember what I cooked in food trial. Cream of Green Peas with Mint Foam, Pollo alla Marinara with garlic mashed potatoes & braised carrots & onions, prawns in coconut gravy[Bengali style, as chef requested], & Yoghurt Mousse with Vanilla Jelly!!
Chef said food was good & after a brief interview with GM...I joined that hotel from the next week.
Well, initially he was good to me, often he would come to me & ask me, "Whats happening??"..Well if nothing is happening, what I can do???
Many things were f***ed up...I wanted to change, but the ass***** will not allow me. So I kept quiet trying to have a grasp over the operations.

Sooner after joining we got a big function for outdoors. We had to make vegetable lasagne & tenderloin stroganoff. I had to make grilled fish with mustard beurre blanc & mashed potato --on site!! It was hard but fun to cook for 1500 ppl!!!!!
It was successful though..
People used to tell me "Chef PN is nice to you now, but see him how does he change in a couple of months"--well, let them whisper. I am never prejudiced by anyone's opinion. I have my own ways to handle things, to handle people & treat them. If someone is bad to others but good to me, is good to me. However, once he is bad, is bad forever.
Things were going fine with him--& with me too. Except a little few shout.
However, the tough day came once...it was egg-white omelette. Damodaran told me later, "I have never seen Chef P. shouting in the kitchen like that!!". Perhaps Chef P. used all his abusive Vocab. on me....I was feeling really bad!! Is the problem with my ego???Yes...badly I have the ego of being "Mr. Know-all". I was being humiliated in the kitchen by abusive Chef P., specially if it is done in front of others. When I am treated in such way--I barely talk to anyone. Only my mother knows the remedy!!! My friends were trying to cheer me up, but I was not in a mood.


Anyways, days were passing fast...sometimes he was happy with me in the morning,  & on the same day he used to swear me in the afternoon. Again praising me in the evening.....
I remember, sometime in the month of June.He called me in his office & asked me, "Gaurav, why didn't you make Bechamel yesterday??", I replied, "Well, Chef, firstly, I didn't have milk at night [I was doing night+morning shift those days!!] & secondly no stockpot for me". He kept quiet & I left the office for quick relief.
I hate complaining & I hate those people who complains. For me kitchen is a place of co-existence & survival for the fittest. Complaining against someone shows immaturity. Why chef asked me these questions?Reason is simple that my colleague complained against me......

On another instance, Chef PN called me in his office. My heart started beating fast.."What is it now??", I asked myself.
Chef PN started blasting "You dont know anything & bla bla..."
Well, I know nothing!!!!
Chef PN continued,"You burnt the bechamel yesterday".
Yes, I did [I am talking to myself, but I am silent!!!]
"Where have you worked before??" Chef PN asked me.
"In Grand Hyatt, Mumbai," I replied,"In their room service kitchen".
"What did you do there??F*** around???", he asked me again.
I chose to remain silent. Else, its adding fuel to fire...
"What you used to make there??", Chef started doing his enquiry about my previous job.
I told him all..
"Make me a club sandwich as you used to make there", he told me.
"Fine..I will do", I replied & left the Office.
After a couple of hours I made the Club S/W as we used to make in Grand Hyatt & he said "Wow"!!!
I went on a week's leave to Kolkata from Chennai & then returned. Post return I was in night shift--for one month, when I had limited interaction. He would come up with sudden ideas & advices & questions..
"Gaurav, where is Ciabatta?" when I was serving a cream of mushroom soup. I was puzzled.
I said, "No ciabatta chef...". He would revert back as "Why no ciabatta??" [Well, How would I know..you are the exe. chef..]He went to pastry & told them to make ciabatta & advised me that Ciabatta to go with Mushroom soup!!Okk...


By August-September, I was on a "About to leave" mode. I dont know, why I have this poor record of job hopping. My mom is annoyed with me, for this reason...even she is scared today, that when I will get back to kolkata without notice...
In the month of September, I gave him my resignation, owing to an offer from Bahrain. He didn't accept the resignation as it was short notice period[I was ready for any compromise though...] & started telling me stories...
Again, at the end of September I gave him resignation, as I was planning to move to Dubai. He read my resignation, smiled at me & said, "Well, I cant stop you anymore. You are meant to go...all the best!!".
I learnt few things from him [Of course, I learn from all people around me...]how to cook steak & many other stuff.....
Mostly I miss his three magic words... "Wow," "Excellent" & "Good"....[He was badly abusive though!!!]


(Dedicated to Chef PN....)

In search of the perfect Omelette...

Traditionally eggs have been considered to be a popular breakfast food--numerous preparations are involved with eggs, specially served for ones breakfast---Boiled Eggs[on doneness!!], Fried Eggs [as per individual preferences], Poached Eggs[sometimes, depends on soft poached eggs or well-cooked ones], Scrambled Eggs[Now again, it rests on doneness, as people are conscious of bacterial infection, specially presence of salmonella in undercooked eggs] & finally Omelettes [The topic of today's discussion].

When I joined Institute of Hotel Management, the initial cookery/kitchen classes had demonstrations on butchery, fish fabrication, soups, sauce etc--amongst them, Egg was also on the demonstration. Unfortunately, I missed those classes, as I used to get up late from sleep. So, I had no option available other than going through books & find out how to make the perfect omelette.

I was going through a book by CIA, known as "Professional Chef" during my quest for *perfect* omelette, where there is an excerpt of Escoffier, which states about omelette "It is a very special form of scrambled egg that is enclosed". Certainly he is talking about French Omelette, which is rolled whilst cooking. Quite contrary to it, American Omelette is half-moon shaped[Come on, America also needs to add something!!!].
Here I wish to *add-on* a comprehensive list of different types of Omelette, prevalent & famous:
1)Masala Omelette- As the name suggests, it originated in India. It is a mixture of chopped onion, tomatoes, green chillies & coriander. All these are mixed with beaten eggs, some seasoning & then made into an omelette. It is a flat omelette.
2)Spanish Omelette- Often known as "Tortilla" [not the Mexican one, which is their corn bread]. It is a flat, thick omelette, it has potatoes, bell peppers, onion & chopped ham.
3)Frittata--It is Italian fluffy omelette. Again, flat & thick one--an array of ingredients!!
4)Thai Omelette--Eggs filled with stuffing!!
5)Crab Omelette---It is a pure asian omelette. Crabmeat is added with eggs & then made into an omelette.The chinese version is known as "Oyster Omelette".

Anyways, let us come back to our Quest for French Omelette. French Omelette is perfectly fluffy, soft with fresh eggs only. Fresh eggs, when beaten incorporates air in it, additionally one can put some milk, some water so that when they evaporate on action of heat[obviously, they cant escape!!] & the result is a soft & fluffy omelette.
I have been thinking for sometime to write on how to make the perfect french omelette & thought today is the right day. Firstly, have a good omelette pan. If your omelette pan is good, you can end number of omelettes in your life, if they are gone....leave it!!
Secondly, the enemies of your omelette pan are moisture & egg white. Truly, we add some milk, cream for scrambled eggs, but these moisture actually damages the seasoned pan.So lesson #1--For scrambled eggs, keep a separate pan.
Eggwhites dont have any fat, so when you are making omelette with egg white, they lack additional lubrication. Rather, they take back any lubrication. What if the eggwhite omelette is to be made without oil....???Think upon it...
Thirdly, dont wash a pan!!It may sound nonsense, but it is a fact. Rather, wipe it with a moist cloth.
Fourthly, dont use any metal for flipping your omelettes. Any metal object can scratch the pan, which may result in .....you know what it is....

Anyways, now lets make an omelette. Take a couple of eggs, [preferably two or three, again on your choice!!]. Whisk them well[beater or fork will do the job!!], season[salt, pepper & wutever you want...including saffron!!!]& keep aside.
Now heat your pan, yes till almost smoking....& add in your fat [Olive Oil, oil, suet, lard, butter, clarified butter, ghee ....] and pop-in the fillings you want[all--onion, tomato..anything, except cheese, for obvious reasons!!] & cook them[make sure any raw meat if added be cooked well, or as per doneness].

Now add in the beaten & seasoned eggs---Wait...till a bubble comes up!!! This makes sure that your omelette is not going to stick at all. Once you see the bubble, start working as if you will do for scrambled eggs, however, dont work too much, else you will get a scrambled egg. Once it is partially cooked, start giving it a perfect round shape, neatly arranging the sides. Add any additional filling if necessary, like cheese or any herbs for example & then start rolling. Remember, a true french rolled omelette is of pale-yellow colour. Quite contrary to what Chef Gordon Ramsay will say "What is there in a food, which has no colour, but it is a fact that a true omelette is almost little to no colour.[Let me tell you a secret--Not all chefs can make the perfect omelette. I have come across so many big shots, but in omelette they are failure...dont spill *this* bean ;) ]

I dont like all omelettes. I would rather prefer a ham & cheese omelette in my breakfast. Ideally Pork Ham[Preferably, if I have blackforest ham] else, smoked turkey ham will also the do the needful. However, I am skeptical about beef, since I dont eat due to obvious reasons!!!
Sometimes, guests ask me "How many omelettes do you make in a day??"...I just smile at it away..I wish I could keep a count ... :)
But have I eaten so many omelettes as many I have made now???Never..... :)

Thursday, March 11, 2010

When cooking for self is boring.....

I remember, when I was in Kolkata, I had never had tension to cook for myself--Mom is there to take care. When I moved to Mumbai, I used to do such an extended shift, that most of the times, I had my lunch & dinner in hotel only, except on off-days when I used to have my meals outside.
In Chennai, we had special provisions that we can have meals in any time of the day--no matter we are working or off-duty!!
But coming to Dubai, things have changed. Here, I am supposed to have on-duty meal, but not off-duty[as in most of the hotels!!!], but eating off-duty means either you eat outside in restaurant[sub-standard or the plush ones] or cook for yourself [Thankfully, in our staff accommodation, we have company provided kitchen!!!].
When I came here, I had full enthusiasm for cooking myself & often cooking for both my partner & me. Like cooking pasta, australian lamb, pork, & sometimes a three course or 2 course menu.
The day offs were mostly featured by cooking---special ingredients from outside, or cooking something that I crave for--specially Mutton Biryani, Bengali style fish curry & etc....but on daily basis, it is rigorous & boring sometimes..again cooking tonight??But I cant starve while sleeping & eat whatever I get the following morning...
But I have to troubleshoot....now what I do is make "Khichri" for myself. Simply put its a onemeal food--Rice & mungdal is boiled together & then tempered with Cumin whole, Red Chilli whole & Bay leaves. Additional masalas are red chilli powder, cumin powder & turmeric powder & loads of gheeee...I also put some chicken sausages in it, some diced vegetables, sometimes if I have any leftover chicken curry or pork curry....to make it wholesome...
I cook the dal & rice together & keep in the refrigerator & when required for my dinner, I scoop out the required portion & keep the rest for the following days..
It must be sounding boring, but what else I can do???Cant cook luxury meal for me everyday--for 1 person...I wish mom was here to cook for me...or if *someone* could cook for me...
Sigh....

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Who ate Mysore Pak???

Place: Main kitchen of a hotel in Chennai, India
Time:9:30 hrs
Date:July 3rd, 2009.

I was in the omelette station of the breakfast buffet. Prajwal aka Rocky was doing night shift & was with me, till he could finish the mise-en place for lunch buffet, as I instructed him. Suddenly he came to me & told me, "Gaurav, Chef PN is shouting in the kitchen & asking everyone, who ate the Mysore Pak which was left in his table last night". We started smiling ...[Mysore Pak is an Indian sweet, or rather south indian sweet, made with roasted pounded gram flour, ghee, sugar--it is very sweet & is heavenly!!!]

Actually on the previous day, someone got a box of Mysore Pak for Chef PN. Chef PN doesn't like sweets much so he thought putting it in the buffet on the following day. On July 2nd I was doing evening shift. After Chef PN left hotel, many guys started getting into chef's office. Someone told me, "Gaurav bhai, people are eating Mysore Pak from Chef's office". I didn't care much & continued my work.
Around 11:50 pm of July 2nd, Prajwal came in to do night shift & we saw a bunch of hooligans getting into Chef's Office to taste the dessert...I went..had a couple of sweets & went away...who knew that such a small thing will lead to a big issue!!!

After the breakfast was over, Chef PN called me in Chef's office.
Chef PN asked me, "Gaurav, yesterday evening, I had a box of Mysore Pak left in my table, but when I came today morning, I saw most of the sweets have been eaten & the box left here. Do you know who all ate it?"
I know Chef PN in & out--how does he behave when he is pissed off--he was pissed off then.
I replied, "No chef, I am not aware of any..."[I lied...I hate lies, lying & liars!!!!]
Chef PN asked me, "Are you sure?"
I said, "Yes, I am".[Shit..I lied again]
Chef PN, "Ok fine...". I left the office.
***
A couple of hours later, I saw some guy talking to Chef PN in Chef's office. It was a long session. Remember, this guy, named as "S" was first one, who inauguration of the "Mysore Pak eating ceremony". I was afraid, he is revealing all names...
After 10-15 minutes he came out & told me "Gaurav, Chef PN is calling you". I went to the Chef's office..
Chef PN: "Gaurav, I have a list of 6-7 names, who all ate the Mysore Pak...[I was telling myself.. "Okk..."]
                 however, your name is there too."[Well, now I am caught..someone must have let the cat out of the bag]
I : "Yes Chef, I ate".
Chef PN: "Then why did you lie in the morning?"
I :Chef, actually I was afraid as you were in a bad mood & any such revelations will further spoil the scenario. Honestly, I felt bad when I was lying, but only for the common benefit, I lied.
Chef PN continues, "Then tell me, who all ate it?"
I answered, judiciously,with description too....
At the end, Chef PN said, "Ok...thank you Gaurav...I know you are a good boy [This is cliched now..]& dont tell anyone that you have informed me & call those guys, who all ate it".
I went & called those guys who also had their share of mysore pak.
They all went & came out after sometime. I asked them, "What happened?"
All said, "Chef PN said that Gaurav told me, you all ate Mysore Pak!!!!"

Simply horrible....

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

Kitchen Conversations...

Today morning, around 8:00 am, I was going to the Club Lounge for checking the breakfast with The Chef. On our way, we came across someone's wife. The Chef asked me,while we were getting in the elevator, "Where is your wife?"...did I hear it correctly, I asked him, "I'm sorry chef...", The Chef reiterated, "Where is your wife??"..I replied, "I dont have a wife...". He asked me then, "Are you not married yet?"..I said, "No".
Still in the left, The chef, "Why??". I am somewhat lost in these sudden questions in the morning. I answered, "Chef, I am only 24!!". Chef said, "So what, people in your country get married by this age..isn't it??". I am completely unaware of this fact, except that of girls. Many of my girl friends have got married, before even they were 23!!
I said, "Well..its too early for me...24 is too early". We got off the lift. Now chef started, "Marriage in your country is pre-arranged, isn't it??". I asked him again, as I was completely blank, "Sorry chef...", The chef, "Marriage in your country is prearranged...isn't it??"...I replied, "No.."...but I was thinking of something else....

A couple of hours later..Andrew notices a pimple on my cheek, "Chef, there is a pimple on your cheek". I said, "Yes, I know". Andrew continues, "That means you are in love"..." Haha"..I laughed it away...

Hmmmm....

Monday, March 8, 2010

Off Day cooking--Rice!!!

Yes..it is our & my staple food. India is a land of paradise, wait a sec, it is a land of paradise for rice growers. For anything else, I will tell you offline....
Basmati & lots of rice...be it Bengal's gobindobhog rice,quite akin to Khao Neow, but with the flavour of pandanus leaves, or the rice, grown in Italy...arborio...
Almost all know...that rice is a good source of carbohydrate-the water that you strain away after boiling your rice is also very nutritious. Perhaps thats why, you never strain your risotto or paella.
I dont like rice much--if there is paratha, roti, I would rather go for that, but rice, is a compulsion!!! It adds on weight, as a matter of fact, & helps my protruding tummy to go further n further....however, there are exceptions though, when I would love to have rice. If it is our very own Rice Kheer/Payasam-quite akin to the western rice pudding, but without eggs. As I learnt from my mother, she boils 1.5 liter of milk & reduce it to one liter. Then she washes the Gobindobhog Rice, as I described before & she uses only half of one handful of that & allows this to boil in the milk. Forgot to mention, she puts in a couple of bay leaves also.
After prolonged simmering, she adds in some green cardamom for flavouring, & some sugar candy[mishri] and the result..is really delicious[not for those people who like/prefers less sweet!!!]I will come up a recipe in few days..whenever, I go to Kolkata, its a must have for me. Hindus offer this sweet preparation for Gods too & any birthday celebration for bengalis, is incomplete without this!!!

Another of the rice speciality, amongst Indian cuisine is Biryani & Phirni. I love Biryani, if you need a recipe of Biryani, go through my previous posts, the title is "The Saga of Biryani". Be it mutton, chicken, seafood biryani--I love it. I would prefer the Dum pukht style biryani, but not Hyderabadi!!

Moving out of India, I will always think of Italian cuisine, than any other ones. Not even French or Chinese or Thai ...I dont know why I have love for Italian cuisine....amongst Italian cuisine, I love to have risotto. They serve it as a first course[primo piatto] & options...are unlimited--you choose it!!! My favorite is seafood risotto, which I cooked today, on my day off. I have been craving for this risotto for months now. In between doctor advised me not to have seafood for obvious reasons, however, now he has allowed for a couple of times in a month, why not use the opportunity??
I had almost all ingredients required for making this food..Lobster Bisque, Sundried tomato, Xtravirgin Olive Oil...however, I didn't have basil!! :( [I dont trust dried basil!!!], however, I didn't use all seafood, but used only Squid. Reasons, it is versatile & cooks easily. It is a little chewy, I can use the ink also for cooking or for making pasta & cutting/processing by own hand adds a little fun, than buying the cleaned, cut squid. For me, I would rather clean, cut fish, than buying the precut from the butcher.
Without beating around the bush....here is the recipe!!!

Squid Risotto with its own ink
Ingredients:
Squid- 3 whole
Arborio Rice- 100 gm
Lobster Stock, strong- 400 ml
Onion, chopped -10 gm
Garlic, chopped- 1 clove
Extravirgin Olive Oil- 25 ml+15 ml for finishing
Sundried tomato-2 pcs, chopped
Oil from Sundried tomato-2 tsp
White Wine, Dry- 30 ml[optional]
Seasoning- as required
Chopped Basil, Parsley- 1 tsp

Method:
1)Clean the squid & cut the squid into big rings. Reserve the ink.
2)In a saucepan, heat olive oil & add the onions & garlic and saute till translucent. Add in the rice till it starts to crackle & add in the dry white wine, till it reduces, or almost dries up.
3)Add in the stock in batches & allow the rice to cook, al dente. Add in the sundried tomatoes.
4)Adjust seasoning & while about to finish, add in the squid & its ink.
5)Once done, finish off with the Olive Oil & oil from sundried tomatoes, check if seasoning is necessary & add in the finely chopped basil & parsely.
Serve immediately!!!!

When the kitchen drama is on the stage.....

Today, in our staff party...we had a little drama. By the way, kitchen is a place of all kind of dramas, which we presented on the stage today in the evening. I acted as "Exe. Chef" & rest of my colleagues as Sous Chef, Pastry Chef, Stewarding, Hygiene Supervisor, Fruit & Veg. Supplier, & so on & so forth. But, we were told not to speak. Honestly, it was awful for me--since childhood, I have been *most talkative* in class & then frequent complaints to my parents, but how can I remain silent??It seemed that we all have joined Mime academy or it was a mime theatre...
Few of the performances before us, actually casted a shadow on our performances, so we had lesser chances to win & secondly, the concept was pitiful. I am being serious now--as it had no meaning--no message to convey [though my colleagues were complaining about teamwork & stuff..but I rarely saw anything happening....]

I am not a professional actor nor a dramatist. I just go by flow, by request--an amateur in all these matters. I dont know whether you are aware or not, in India, we used to have this "Kaun Banega Crorepati"--influenced by "Who wants to be a millionaire?".I was in grade 9 then...whilst discussing about what to do in School Culturals, I gave my friends the idea, how about doing this game show as our drama???Dialect was of Bangladesh[I am strong in it--thanks to my ancestors & few family members who still retain the essence of Bangladeshi dialect]. However, since the concept came from me, my schoolmates wanted me to be Amitabh Bachchan of the game show. I remember, when I started, my mouth was almost dry---crying for "Water....Water"...but gradually, it went all fine...& guess what..it was blockbuster!!!We did it again & again...even in the theatre of Kolkata--which is most elite one & meant only for connoisseurs of art, culture & literature!!!

Looking at today's one, our performance & idea was way below...to win a prize [though we were praising each other!!!]. Anyways, people say, "Better luck next time..." but next time???You never know... :)