The Grand Christmas Menu...2012

"I will have a blue christmas, without you,
I will be so blue just thinking about you...."

I am humming this song day & night (and it is so favorite to me right now!) and alas...the best time of the year is here.... "Christmas".
For the past few years (read: Since I joined hospitality) Christmas has been all about cooking at home...4 courses 5 courses or may be all foods brought together on the table.Be it the simple & humble roast chicken or a couple of desserts--the rum soaked fruit cake was a must--all that I would prepare if I am at home in Christmas.
Since 2009, things have changed a bit--I am staying overseas--Dubai, if you quite dont follow my whereabouts. Working on the christmas day means, there is no chance of cooking at home like that, so the *special* menu has to be substituted on some other day,and when I am free to cook for myself (unless there is someone else who wants to tag along!)

I was thinking for the past few months what to cook for this year's christmas & finally came up with a brilliant menu--which are actually gathered through my past experience, seasonal availability & of course, what money can offer-- a decadent 6 course menu, with unlimited wine (which I hope). Again, I will have to clean up whatever I have in my freezer (I am leaving Dubai soon...!!).

The most important part of the menu is featuring Canadian Lobster--I have dreamed long to cook a butter poached lobster, but this year, money permitted to buy one. So there you go, a baby lobster featured with the lobster risotto. And then, it is too much mise-en place (preparations before actual cooking of the meal) & when it comes to cooking for one person. Anyways, without beating around the bush,here is my Grand Christmas menu...

Tartare de Saumon sale

Marinated Oranges, Seaweed Caviar

-

Foie gras de Canard poele

Walnut brioche, Cherries

-

Risotto au Homard Bleu

Butter Poached Atlantic Lobster, Tarragon Oil

-

Caille braisee

Winter fruits & vegetables, Port wine jus

-

Le Fromage

Crackers, quince jam

-

Le Surprise de Noel

Nougat & Raspberry terrine, Pistachio

Joyeaux Noel. Bon Appetit. :)

Notes:

Tartare de Saumon sale

I learnt this way of curing salmon at my present employment-tried at home then transformed it into a tartare--the result was marvelous.Oranges are good to go with salmon. The seaweed caviar gives a good texture to the finished product.

Foie gras de Canard poele

Pan fried foie gras with cherries, balsamic & walnut brioche. It has to be a winter favorite. Period.

Risotto au Homard Bleu

Cooking this at home is like a dream come true. The base of the risotto is going to be lobster bisque--which we get from the same shells of the lobster used for butter poached lobster. Again, butter poached lobster is paying homage to Chef Thomas Keller. As a quick tip, I blanched the live lobster for 1 min in aromatic salted water & removed the shells from the tail & claws & then once cleaned--the meat straight to the freezer

Caille braisee

This is just a simple stuff. Boneless quail stuffed with some dry fruits & nuts formed into a roll. Then seared & finally cooked in its own jus, which has essence of port wine reduction. Served with beetroot, sweet potato puree, carrot & fresh apricot.

Le Fromages

Assorted farmhouse (and my favorite) cheeses with homemade quince jam. Delicious

Le Surprise de Noel

I name it as "christmas surprise" because I am using nougat, which reminds me of christmas. It is a frozen layered dessert with raspberry sorbet which again, is encased in a white chocolate shell. 

A love letter...to my kitchen!!

Everyone has some form of passion or the other. Passion for cooking for example, or passion to serve people. Passion to write, passion in their own world/profession. Again, in culinary, some people have passion for contemporary cooking, whilst someone will have interest in classics.My learning in culinary or kitchen basics had been all around french classics--poulet saute chasseur, poisson duglere or tournedos ala portugaise--these are all french classics, few from Escoffier itself.
However, coming to Dubai changed my thought process in kitchen--plating, menus etc. And there is this menu, which I would love to cook. Yes, it is a love letter to my lost love, which I never had.It is a blend of classics[in my way] & my best contemporary menu.

Tartare de Coquilles St.Jacques

Mango et Avocat

-

Raviole de Mozzarella

-

Saumon ala moutarde

Pommes Maxim, Fenouil ala orange

-

Boeuf Braise

Sauce port, foie gras poele, pomme puree

-

Cafe et chocolat

Cafe parfait, sauce chocolate

Recipes:

Tartare de Coquilles St.Jacques

Mango et Avocat

Concept: Whenever, I create a menu or a dish for example, there is a motive[as if a killer, who always has a motive]. Scallops, were actually frozen ones, which I bought a couple of months before. For some, May is the last month for eating Scallops. And for some, the season for shellfishes are those months containing "R" i.e. September through April. I paired Scallops with soft & creamy avocado with mango. All have been seasoned with fleur de sel. The mango was seasoned additionally with cayenne pepper, to give a little kick. The scallops, chopped raw has been seasoned with some lime oil & some lime juice as well, which actually cooks up the protein a bit.

I garnished with two slices of green apple, which is again wonderful with scallops & topped with some caviar.

Ingredients:

Scallops,chopped-100 gm

Ripe Mango, chopped- 50 gm

Avocado,chopped-50 gm

Fleur de sel- to taste

Lime juice-1 lime

Lime oil- 1 tsp

Cayenne Pepper- 2 pinches

Green Apple- 2 thin slices

Caviar-1/2 tsp

Method:

Season the avocado with fleur de sel, mango with fleur de sel & cayenne pepper and scallops with fleur de sel, lime juice & lime oil. On a plate, place a mold in the center & first make a layer of avocado, followed by mango & then top it scallops. Put a quenelle of caviar & arrange the apple slices vertically.

Raviole de Mozzarella

Concept: Buffalo Mozzarella, Basil & tomatoes--It is Italy in one plate. It is also flavours of summer put together in one plate.This ravioli also reminds me of the ravioli I had in my first employment overseas.Dont forget except a vegan, any vegetarian can eat this one!!
Ingredients:

Buffalo Mozzarella-100 gm
Pasta sheet- 4 nos, 6" square
Olive Oil-50 ml
Onion-20 gm
Garlic-10 gm
Canned tomatoes-400 gm
Seasoning-to taste
Fresh basil, chopped-1 tsp
Method:
Drain the mozzarella, cut into half if it is in one whole piece & season. Keep aside. Roll out the sheet & put it in the centre of the sheet. Put one sheet of pasta on top & press tightly to remove any air gap. Keep it chilled
Prepare the tomato sauce in the meanwhile. Saute garlic, onion in 15 ml of olive oil until lightly colored. Add in the canned tomatoes, season & cook slowly until well reduced.
Once reduced, blend it with the remaining olive oil & finish it with fresh basil.
When ready to serve, blanch the raviolis in boiling water for about 1 minute & toss in the sauce. Serve immediately.

Saumon ala moutarde

Pommes Maxim, Fenouil ala orange

Concept: Any (fish loving) Bengali can always swear by his shorshe maach/ilish[fish in mustard sauce]. Generally a bengali prefers a sweetwater/river fish than seafish, but what to do in Dubai, where getting fresh riverwater fish is pretty challenging. So my retake on a bong's favorite is with salmon. Paired with fennel braised in orange juice[and you know why fennel is so good with salmon] & a layer of crispy potatoes, known as pommes maxim otherwise

[No recipes for this one]

Boeuf Braise

Sauce port, foie gras poele, pomme puree

If anyone asks me, if I have any classic, I will always say, "Braised beef short ribs" as one of my many. Texturewise, mostly all are soft-the braised beef, the pan fried foie gras, the creamy mashed potato. To give a bite & change in colour, I added a baby carrot. The sauce is too rich, extravagant but pairs well with the beef & foie gras. 

[No recipes for this one]

Cafe et chocolat

Cafe parfait, sauce chocolate

Concept: It is just thinking over & over again for the dessert. Coffee & chocolates go so well with each other. You can even substitute parfait with pannacotta as well. Equally good.

Will the spring of love ever come in my life??

This is what Neil was asking me last weekend, when he came to Dubai on vacation last month, "Will the spring of love ever come in my life?".
I didn't have an answer for him, even if he asked me astrological possibilities!!Given that Neil has a lot of pros and cons when looking for his *soulmate*, often he relaxes his *conditions* which he looks for in his probable life partner, I find him pretty lenient these days. For example, he got attracted to a Swiss girl few months before, who he came across in another office, Sarah.
"I felt, we share a bond. We exchanged our phone no. & thought of catching up someday soon", Neil's voice was heavy.
"So, we went out to have Italian food in the near by restaurant & spent a couple of hours over there. The only thing worried me was her age. She is so young to me. After dinner, we went to the bar close by--she had a cocktail & myself a beer & then off to home.
"We were texting each other pretty frequently & then it was her birthday. The same gift I gave her on her birthday, as I gave to Melissa on her last birthday in Kent. A perfume & a single red rose.
"The following day, we went to eat in a french restaurant, as we discussed before.But then after that night, her texts started becoming infrequent. Even her calls...we planned to meet again but then, she was not in a mood.
"The entire story finished in just a few weeks. I was already in the mood to move on & let Sarah go. I wasn't wrong my friend. But then, even I was feeling good", Neil added with a smile.
"No, I didn't lose anything. I didn't see anything for me to lose, except a probable friendship may be. But then, its ok. Many will come and go. What matters is those people who will still stay with you in your last minute".
I couldn't agree with Neil anymore. That is so true--people will come and go & how many will stay with you till your last moment.
"Well, there is this girl, who I have started liking, from USA, with who I worked before.But then she is in states now...not sure if I will see her again".
Will the spring of love ever come in Neil's life, when Neil can sing to all her lost *loves*, "Never mind I find someone like you....."

To all those who I loved....and those who left me!!

One of my colleagues was referring to a song in brunch yesterday, "Tears in Heaven" by Eric Clapton. He was telling me, "I like this song, it is so sweet, nice & slow". Well, I like slow music [No wonder, why Andrea Bocelli is my all time favorite], so I decided to return home & then listen to the song along...
Yes, the song was very touchy, and I couldn't hold my tears, especially those who I loved the most and then who all left me alone.I have not seen death[rather, not the ones that happened in front of me] but yes, there were many people who died since I was a child.
It started with my grandpa[my father's father] died when I was 2 years old, however, I have hardly any incidents which was related to him. Sometimes, I wonder whether I saw him, though there are pictures with he & I.
Then it was my grandfather [my mother's father], who died when I was 4 years old. I didn't know what was death by then. With my weak memory, all I could recollect, it was a rainy day & my grand father was admitted to the hospital because of his ailing health. His dead body was brought back home & everyone was crying. Of course, I didn't cry because I didn't know what was wrong. But when his body taken to the crematorium for the funeral, I started crying aloud. Yes, still, I didn't know what was going on.

When I was 7 years old, my grandmother left for heaven. Yes, by then, I knew she wouldn't survive as the deadly cancer spread all through her body. But yes, there was hope. I have very clear memories of the last few days I stayed with her. Yes, I loved her the most & her death left a gap in my life.On the morning she died, I was told, "Your grandmother has deceased". I couldn't believe so I was about to enter the room where was deadbody was kept. But then, I couldn't enter & started weeping. A day which I will not forget & even tears come when I think of that day, May 27th, 1992!!

People say, spiritual leader never dies--his soul always stays with his disciples. Such was the day November 4th, 2007, the day my spiritual leader, Shreemat Swami Gahananandaji Maharaj left his mortal form for the spiritual abode of Shri Ramakrishna. Well, he was ailing for months, however, I felt he would recover. But he didn't.
It was a Sunday, and I left for a team dinner[when I was working +studying] & took a bus for Park Street[The same bus which would go through Sarat Bose Road], where gurudev was staying for treatment. Once I boarded the bus, I got a phone call from my mother, "Your gurudev breathed his last at 5:35 pm". The time then was 6:30 pm. I got down in the same hospital where was staying. Yes, I was crying a lot!!! But then, I cannot write anymore on that day!!!
There will be many more deaths perhaps, which I am yet to see, but my question which I'll ask those deceased souls,
"Would you know my name
If I saw you in heaven?
Would you feel the same
If I saw you in heaven?"

I am not afraid of death, but what I am afraid of is will I live fully when I die?Will it be full of flashback of a life, worth seeing before I die?Afterall, when we all are bound for heaven...

A menu for Easter

Well...it is spring time[perhaps, in the kitchen, it can also be said, The best time of the year], new produces...lots of vegetables, fruits etc. But without beating around the bush, let me propose the Easter menu quickly & then cook something for myself, a breakfast actually. The main course will always have lamb[and I am sentimental to put it on Easter!!]

Carpaccio de Coquilles Saint Jacques

Avocado, Mango, Caviar

-

Souris d'agneau

Flageolini, Goatcheese-Eggplant puree, Lamb Jus

-

Citrus

Brioche pain perdu, Almond cake, Lemon sorbet

Per Amore...a simple menu for my love...or your love

Ok...Love is in the air people say. Even I believed it, till I found it out that it can be for everyone else, not me. But does that stop me from writing up a new menu for someone' love, after all, when it has got to be all about aphrodisiacs.
Whenever, I think of aphrodisiacs, I can only think of Oysters & Lobsters[since, they have high amount of zinc, compared to other foods] and more of them.And they are perfect before making love with your significant other. Anyways, let me present my small menu, before I utter another word in ode to aphrodisiacs.

Amuse Bouche

(invariably some freshly shucked oysters with mignonette dressing)

-

Beetroot Carpaccio

Lemon dressing, hazelnuts & bocconcini

-

Risotto alle rose rosse e fragole

Risotto of red roses & strawberries

-

Rouget ala Marseillaise

Red Mullet, fondant potatoes, Bouillabaisse sauce

-

Predessert

Bacon & Coffee creme brulee

-

Le Vacherin

 Blueberry & White chocolate parfait, marinated strawberries

Foie gras --The rich's offal

"Chef, what is that?", I asked the chef who was doing his plating for "Filetto di Manzo alla Rossini", when I was in Ritz Carlton, Dubai, my first employment overseas.
"That is foie gras", he replied while putting it on top of toasted apricot brioche.
Yes, that was the first time, I saw foie gras being cooked. Prior to it, I had only theoretical knowledge of what foie gras is. In simple terms it is "fattened liver"(of duck and goose) by feeding more and more. Romans are said to have force fed geese with dried figs, and prior to that Egyptians force fed birds. However, it was not until Roman period that foie gras itself became the reason for force feeding birds(the other reasons people cite is to make the meat taste sweet).
In the meantime, after the fall of Roman empire, the practice vanished, however, Jews retained the tradition who were looking for a cooking medium, since lard is prohibited. The only fat they could use except olive oil & sesame oil was poultry fat & they kept the tradition of force feeding birds in order to get the fat from them.However, this practice was abolished since 19th century. But the question is...since when it became a french delicacy??
Since foie gras is derived from only two types of birds--goose & duck, the prices are high, & both of them tastes different. Duck foie gras has a little gamey taste, musky flavour with a subtle bitter taste. However, goose foie gras has more pronounce taste, smoother, less gamey and more delicate flavour.

Well, foie gras is full of fat & it always tastes good..the number one reason I love to eat foie gras. I have some severe medical complications which has resulted in a number of dietary restrictions...cannot each too much red meat, offals are no-no for me. Well, I am not a fan of offals--I still remember when my mom used to put liver of mutton while cooking mutton curry, explaining it to be healthy & I would judiciously take it off from my plate. But when it comes to foie gras, I cannot say "No". It is always "yes...yes" for me.
Generally foie gras is served in two forms--hot & cold. In hot form, nothing is as delicious as simple pan fried foie gras. All you need is a simple seasoning(I like to season mine with a pinch of fleur de sel & some crushed pepper) or you go to some exotic seasonings like five spice etc. Put it on top of brioche(I put it on walnut brioche), pain d'epice(loosely, known as the gingerbread)or even some toasted baguette. Anymore accompaniments??Well..many, but choose them effectively. Generally accompaniments should be a little sweet-sour combinations. For example, glazed berries, orange zest confit, reduction of port wine with grape juice, fig chutney or can be simply caramelised (green)apples, pears, onion marmalade etc.
Foie gras in its cold form are many--it can be mousse, it can be terrine, it can be cured in a towel or "au torchon" as you will call in French.

                                                Now, that is Foie gras au torchon with raspberry coulis & fig jam

               And this is, well, Pan fried foie gras with walnut brioche, confit orange zest & red onion marmalade










People raise questions about the way duck and goose are force fed, inhumanely. I have no voice--against or for it. And you will know the rates are high since out of one goose/duck you will get only 1 foie gras & not two. And that it takes months for them to achieve that enormous size of liver[can weigh upto 2 pounds or even more]& the slaughter takes place generally during christmas(So whenever you have it, it reminds you of christmas isn't it??). The addition of foie gras to anything makes it a little luxurious. For example, Rossini style tenderloin steak or "Tournedos ala Rossini", where the beefsteak is topped with a piece of foie gras & some shaved truffle or even Daniel Boulud's burger in bistro moderne, where burger is topped with a piece of foie gras or putting a pan fried foie gras on top of scallops or lobster, for some "surf-n-turf" as Thomas Keller would do.
So to enjoy some little luxury at home, I bought 3 livers...one liver for pan fried foie gras & the rest two for making terrine & enjoy it with some homemade brioche.
But did you try foie gras creme brulee??or Foie gras ice-cream?Yes, I had creme brulee, but I am waiting for that day, when I will have foie gras ice-cream & that too of goose foie gras.
For the time being...Bon Appetit!! :)

Sunday off..and cooking at home

Perhaps my most popular topic, "Sunday offs" and then some home cooking is back again. Well, Sundays are very special to me since my childhood--firstly, it being the weekly holiday[despite Saturday has been a holiday as well, before I started working in hospitality] & secondly, the mutton curry--a must have on a sunday lunch, albeit with steamed rice.
The evenings were mostly reserved for going out, having dinner in some restaurants and then back home!!
So whenever, I get off on Sundays, I just feel I am going to enjoy the international weekend[and not the regional weekend, which comprises of Friday+Saturday]. Its been a while, that I didn't do a proper cooking at home--a set menu, a loving gesture that I mostly do to myself and then I cooked, I ate and I digested all.
So the menu was

Cream of Artichoke soup

Truffle oil, Pork Tartine

-

Panfried Salmon

White Asparagus, Polenta, Orange emulsion and gremolata foam

-

Chocolate poached pears

Mixed berry soup, pear sorbet

Well...that was the menu for previous sunday!!!However, I will share only one recipe out of all these, one that of main course...

Panfried Salmon

White Asparagus, Polenta, Orange emulsion and gremolata foam

Ingredients:

For the Salmon

Salmon-180 gm filet, preferably from the belly part, with the skin on

Seasoning-As required

Olive Oil-20 ml

Butter, chilled-25 gm

Fleur de sel-1 pinch

For the orange emulsion

Orange-1 no

Star anise-1 no

Honey- 1 tsp

Fish stock- 30 ml

Seasoning- as required

Olive Oil-20 ml

Butter, chilled-10 gm

For the Polenta

Quick cooking polenta-20 gm

Milk-100 ml

Water- if required

Butter- 10 gm

Parmesan, grated- 10 gm

Salt- As required

For the White Asparagus

White Asparagus tips-3 nos.

Butter- 10 gm

Seasoning- As required

For the gremolata foam

Parsley-1/2 bunch

Lime-1 no

Garlic-2 cloves

Soy Lecithin/"Lecite" by Texturas-1 pinch

Salt-1/2 tsp

Water-500 ml

Method:

For the Gremolata Foam

1.Chop up the parsley, zest the lemon & take the juice out of it, chop the garlic & add all in the water, with some salt. Bring it to boil & simmer for 20 minutes and then let it infuse for further 15 minutes. 

2.Strain the mixture, reserve the water, adjust the salt & blend in the lecithin. Keep warm

For the Polenta

1. Cook the polenta in milk, add salt till its no more grainy. Add water if milk is not enough. Finish off with butter, parmesan & let it cool down enough, to cut into a square.

For the Orange emulsion

1.Zest & juice the orange & simmer with star anise, honey, fish stock & salt. Once it is a little syrupy, strain & add in the Olive Oil & keep aside.

For the White Asparagus

1. Peel, blanch the asparagus in salt water. Drain & refresh in ice-cold water & drain again. Reserve until ready for cooking

Final Cooking:

Season the salmon. In a hot pan, add oil & once the oil is hot, put in the salmon, skin side down & cook for 3-4 minutes. In the meanwhile, cut the polenta in a square block[same size of that the salmon] & heat in the oven. Finish the orange emulsion--bring it to boil & add in the block of chilled butter & mix fast. Heat butter in a pan & when it is lightly browned add in the asparagus & season.

Once salmon is cooked on one side, turn on the other side, add the butter in the pan and baste the fish with the melted butter from the pan--cook for a further 2-3 minutes.

Plating:

First arrange the white asparagus on the plate & put the polenta on top. Rest the salmon on top of polenta & drizzle the sauce around. Use a handheld blender to make the foam & put some foam around the fish & on the sides of the fish. Sprinkle the fleur de sel on top of the salmon.

Bon Appetit!!

Year 2011: Re-visited

I still have clear memories of January 1st 2011....I was leaving for home around 2:30am in the morning after work & went home, amidst the traffic congestion in Sheikh Zayed Road with my colleagues--it took about an hour to reach home...then sleep & then ...work!!
When I got up in the morning, I was a little terrified since the previous evening was uncontrollably busy..around 129 covers--my boss & myself ran the show. I was afraid that January 1st wud be busy as well, but thank god---it was not!!
In days to come, I went home on vacation, i.e. to Kolkata but for 20 days, which seemed very long to me. At last, I could enjoy the winter in Kolkata & good, sound sleep...no more alarm, no one to disturb me neither, I need to get ready for work.
However, I was getting tired in the same place for almost 12-13 months in the same position and when I asked if the department has any plan for my career development[what I meant "am I going to get any promotion??", I guess it was overdue] & my question was just nulled by an answer, "Nothing before 2012". So, its time to move on I guess, and then started a period of search, job search. Ok, dont get me wrong--I love my job, but the company stopped loving me.So why shall I love the company who stopped to think about me[or it is just delinquent!!!]?
Anyways, days passed as I was looking for a change in company--I was not confident enough to secure a chef de partie position, since I need to learn a lot in the kitchen, than merely apply for a supervisor position, and however, in days to come I had two options, one of them offering a chef de partie but low salary in Seychelles and another one offering same position but with more remuneration and benefits, i.e. Hyatt. Well, I chose Hyatt---its like getting back to the old girlfriend, with who you broke up few years before. When I put down my papers in the company, many people were quite surprised that I was about to leave--it was a big decision for me, but I had no options left. In 2 hours, they were planning to promote me, however, I didn't work with them anymore--accepting the promotion means staying there & work with them--I was reluctant to do so. Days passed and came my last day...with a fond farewell & tears in my ears---yes I was moved!!Yes, I left Ritz Carlton, Dubai with a heavy heart...

I started my new life, new place, new people & altogether new kitchen, new way of working. This is what happens whenever you start in a place--no matter how experience you are, you need to act like a stupid for some days to learn and know how things work there. There are some people who you will always like at work & who you will never like just because they are idiots.And it just happens with me everywhere I go.

But yes, I enjoy my work in Hyatt, despite the long days & hours, but every moment is challenging when it is busy--I guess that was good. In my former place, I was getting lazy due to less pressure at work thus it was becoming easy life.
 I joined the main kitchen, I was being transferred to the french kitchen--cooking and serving fine French food--contemporary & classics & in my repertoire just knowledge absorption--skills, cooking, concepts & a lot of things.

When I look back at 2010 & then at 2011-I find 2011 was way ahead better than 2010---year 2010 was a year of frustrations,depressions and all sorts of negative. 2011 gave me a lot of opportunities to learn and see new things...new people, new friends.But its been a while that I am in Dubai--and it has become boring now. I remember how desperate I was to leave Dubai & this year, I hope I'll leave Dubai & try for some other countries[I am not thinking of getting back to India--to work!!].But I am looking forward to 2012---Is there any surprise in store for me??I leave that to God, let Him reveal everything in His own time!!