Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Foie gras --The rich's offal

"Chef, what is that?", I asked the chef who was doing his plating for "Filetto di Manzo alla Rossini", when I was in Ritz Carlton, Dubai, my first employment overseas.
"That is foie gras", he replied while putting it on top of toasted apricot brioche.
Yes, that was the first time, I saw foie gras being cooked. Prior to it, I had only theoretical knowledge of what foie gras is. In simple terms it is "fattened liver"(of duck and goose) by feeding more and more. Romans are said to have force fed geese with dried figs, and prior to that Egyptians force fed birds. However, it was not until Roman period that foie gras itself became the reason for force feeding birds(the other reasons people cite is to make the meat taste sweet).
In the meantime, after the fall of Roman empire, the practice vanished, however, Jews retained the tradition who were looking for a cooking medium, since lard is prohibited. The only fat they could use except olive oil & sesame oil was poultry fat & they kept the tradition of force feeding birds in order to get the fat from them.However, this practice was abolished since 19th century. But the question is...since when it became a french delicacy??
Since foie gras is derived from only two types of birds--goose & duck, the prices are high, & both of them tastes different. Duck foie gras has a little gamey taste, musky flavour with a subtle bitter taste. However, goose foie gras has more pronounce taste, smoother, less gamey and more delicate flavour.

Well, foie gras is full of fat & it always tastes good..the number one reason I love to eat foie gras. I have some severe medical complications which has resulted in a number of dietary restrictions...cannot each too much red meat, offals are no-no for me. Well, I am not a fan of offals--I still remember when my mom used to put liver of mutton while cooking mutton curry, explaining it to be healthy & I would judiciously take it off from my plate. But when it comes to foie gras, I cannot say "No". It is always "yes...yes" for me.
Generally foie gras is served in two forms--hot & cold. In hot form, nothing is as delicious as simple pan fried foie gras. All you need is a simple seasoning(I like to season mine with a pinch of fleur de sel & some crushed pepper) or you go to some exotic seasonings like five spice etc. Put it on top of brioche(I put it on walnut brioche), pain d'epice(loosely, known as the gingerbread)or even some toasted baguette. Anymore accompaniments??Well..many, but choose them effectively. Generally accompaniments should be a little sweet-sour combinations. For example, glazed berries, orange zest confit, reduction of port wine with grape juice, fig chutney or can be simply caramelised (green)apples, pears, onion marmalade etc.
Foie gras in its cold form are many--it can be mousse, it can be terrine, it can be cured in a towel or "au torchon" as you will call in French.
                                                Now, that is Foie gras au torchon with raspberry coulis & fig jam


               And this is, well, Pan fried foie gras with walnut brioche, confit orange zest & red onion marmalade










People raise questions about the way duck and goose are force fed, inhumanely. I have no voice--against or for it. And you will know the rates are high since out of one goose/duck you will get only 1 foie gras & not two. And that it takes months for them to achieve that enormous size of liver[can weigh upto 2 pounds or even more]& the slaughter takes place generally during christmas(So whenever you have it, it reminds you of christmas isn't it??). The addition of foie gras to anything makes it a little luxurious. For example, Rossini style tenderloin steak or "Tournedos ala Rossini", where the beefsteak is topped with a piece of foie gras & some shaved truffle or even Daniel Boulud's burger in bistro moderne, where burger is topped with a piece of foie gras or putting a pan fried foie gras on top of scallops or lobster, for some "surf-n-turf" as Thomas Keller would do.
So to enjoy some little luxury at home, I bought 3 livers...one liver for pan fried foie gras & the rest two for making terrine & enjoy it with some homemade brioche.
But did you try foie gras creme brulee??or Foie gras ice-cream?Yes, I had creme brulee, but I am waiting for that day, when I will have foie gras ice-cream & that too of goose foie gras.
For the time being...Bon Appetit!! :)

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