Saturday, January 30, 2010

Love is in the air---A three course menu for your beloved valentine....

Love is in the air....
You must have heard this sentence till now, end number of times....love is in the air....but specially why on Feb. 14th every year?Why not throughout the year??I dont know & I dont know who has an answer to this question. For me, Love is in the air, throughout the year, not on a specific date/day. However, the love birds & love-couples are patrons for February 14th, every year--their favourite being giving each other with loads & loads of gifts, or partying, dancing, hanging around, but gifting love to each other???I wonder.....
I dont know what will I be doing in this Valentine's Day,as there will be some special programs in hotel that day, may be a set menu for couples etc., but this day has been dull for me[compared to the love-birds] & just like any other day to me. Sometimes, I feel myself in an awkward position, amongst the love birds flying around, for being the odd one out.....
Anyways, cooking for ones love has been always been one of the specials, anytime in the air, but to you, when love is in the air, why not try some cooking on the onset of spring, & impress your date/lover with your culinary expertise.
I have framed a three course menu for your dear love.[The ingredients are meant for 2 portions]

Puree of Peperonata Soup with Basil Oil
-
Roasted Lamb Chops
Onion & Carrot Compote, Spinaci Alla Romana, Soft Polenta & Rosemary Sabayon
-
Blueberry & Balsamic Creme Brulee
Black & White Panna Cotta with Glazed Strawberries


Peperonata Soup with Basil Oil
This soup is quite akin to our roasted pepper soup, however, the addition of tomato makes all the difference. Peperonata is a kind of relish from La Cucina Siciliana. In a nutshell, it is made of peppers, which are roasted & followed by skinning process. Then they are cooking with some onion, tomatoes for sometimes & finished with a good drizzle of olive oil. However, the soup doesn't end here. We liquidise it, add some moisture or stock as one desires & then followed by further seasoning & a drizzle of Basil Oil on top.
Ingredients:

Yellow Bell Peppers- 2 nos.
Red Bell Peppers- 3 nos.
Onion- 50 gm
Tomatoes- 100 gm
Seasoning- as required
Olive Oil- 20 ml

For the Basil Oil
Fresh Sweet Basil- 50 gm
Oil- 100 ml
Method:
For the Soup
1.Roast the peppers & once the skin starts to darken, take them off the heat, keep in a container & cover tightly with a cling film for 15-20 minutes or till cold enough to handle.
2.Peel off the skin, cut the peppers into half, take off the seeds, pith etc & roughly chop the peppers.Blanch, peel & seed the tomatoes. Roughly chop the tomatoes.
3.Heat olive oil in a pan & start sweating the peppers. Add in the tomatoes & cook them covered for around 10-15 minutes, but dont burn!!!
4. Check seasoning, & make a fine puree of the pepperonata. Add water/vegetable stock as required for consistency & check seasoning. Keep hot!!!
For the Basil Oil
1. Blanch the basil leaves & make a fine paste of the leaves. Add them to the oil & keep for at least 2 days for the flavours to infuse.

Before Service:
Serve the soup hot, with basil oil drizzled on top of the soup.



Roasted Lamb Chops
Onion & Carrot Compote,Spinaci Alla Romana, Soft Polenta & Rosemary Sabayon
This is our main course for the three course menu. You can see a lot of *accompaniments* with the main course which is Roasted Lamb Chops in this case. They may seem to be difficult, but trust me, they are pretty easy. Few of these can be made ahead a day or two before, except the main course, flamed peas. Polenta you can make it instantly or make it a day before--as & when time permits!!!
Ingredients:

For the Lamb Chops
Lamb Rack- 1 no
Seasoning- As required
Garlic- 2 cloves
Oil- 50 ml
Rosemary- 1 sprig
Mustard- 2 tsp [preferably Dijon Mustard]

For the Compote
Carrot- 100 gm
Onion-50 gm
Oil- 20 ml
Water- 50 ml
Seasoning- As required
Ground Ginger- As required

For the Spinaci Alla Romana
Spinach- 1 bunch
Bacon- 15 gm
Pine Nuts- 10 gm
Raisins- 10 gm
Seasoning- As required

For the Soft Polenta
Instant Polenta-50 gm
Water- 250 ml
Butter- 15 gm
Grated Parmesan Cheese- 5 gm

For the Rosemary Sabayon
Egg Yolk- 3 nos
Rosemary leaves chopped- of 1/2 sprig
Seasoning- to taste
Cream- 30 ml

 Method:
For the Roast Lamb Chops
Trim & french the lamb chops. Season with salt-pepper & marinate it with garlic, mustard, oil, rosemary --overnight.
When you are ready for roasting, sear in a hot plate until nicely colored & finish in an oven of 200 deg Centigrade till according to the doneness desired.

For the Compote
Peel, half & slice the carrots neatly. Chop the onions fine. In a deep pan, add in the onion & carrots & cook until translucent.  Add in the water, seasoning & the ground ginger. Cook covered, but check from time to time, so that the water doesn't dry out.
Adjust the consistency of the compote. Check for additional seasoning & keep hot

For the Spinaci Alla Romana
Trim, wash & blanch the spinach. Drain & refresh in cold water & drain again. Roughly chop the spinach. Squeeze excess water in the spinach.
Heat the bacon in a pan, render the fat & throw away the cracklings. Add in the spinach, nuts & raisins. Saute till heated through. Season & keep hot.

For the Rosemary Sabayon
Whisk the egg yolks with seasonings & chopped herbs. Keep on whisking till the egg yolks are fluffy & the color changes.
Now add the cream & beat over bain-marie till the mixture thickens[but not coagulate]. Keep hot.

Final assembling
Put the spinach on the middle of the plate & followed by the lamb rack on top of it. Drop the polenta on one side & the compote on the other. Drizzle the rosemary sabayon around & on the lamb chops. Garnish with dried tomato skins & chopped parsley.

Blackberry & Balsamic Creme Brulee
A classical french dessert, where eggyolks & cream are cooked in a double-boiler & then the *burnt sugar* on top. Creme brulee actually means burnt cream & can be said, it is the "Creme Caramel" made up side-down.
This version is a vegetarian version of the authentic creme brulee, & no cooking in double boiler, however, will be the same creme brulee with some flavourings.

Ingredients:
Fresh Blackberry- 50 gm
Aged Aceto Balsamico- 15 ml
Greek Yoghurt- 200 gm
Sour Cream- 50 gm
Honey-40 gm[preferably accacia or blossom honey]
Brown sugar- 20 gm

Method:
Put the blackberries in a bowl & marinate with the vinegar. Let is stand for 15-20 minutes. Reserve a few for garnish & distribute the rest among 2 ramekin dish.
In a bowl, mix the yoghurt, sour cream & honey & put in the ramekin dishes & allow to stand for at least 1 hr.
When ready to serve, sprinkle the top of each with brown sugar & caramelise the sugar with a handheld torch. Garnish the top with the reserved berries & serve immediately.


Black & White Pannacotta with Glazed Strawberries
When I asked one of my colleagues, to rate the menu, he first asked me, "How will you make black & white pannacotta?", my answer was "Dark Chocolate"!!! To give the traditional vanilla pannacotta a contrast, I have chosen the black version of it, as Shahjehan wanted to build a Black Tajmahal once he built the White one.
You may ask "Wont the two pannacotta-s mix with each other, if made in the same mould/glass?", the answer is a big "NO", provided your consistency is similar to each other.

Ingredients:-
Fresh Whipping Cream- 250 ml
Sugar- 50 gm
Dark Chocolate- 50 gm[melted over a double boiler]
Vanilla Essence- a few drops
Gelatin- 15 gm
Milk- 50 ml[or less, if required]
Butter- 20 gm
Strawberries- 1 handful, hulled
Sugar- 50 gm
Method:
Bloom the gelatin in 20 ml water. Boil the cream & milk together, add the sugar & divide into two. In one add the vanilla & in the other, add in the chocolate & mix well.
Add in the gelatin in both & mix well. If required, add some milk to the chocolate mixture for right consistency. Pour the vanilla mixture on the bottom of your moulds/martini glasses & then the chocolate mixture on top. Allow to set for a couple of hours.
Heat the butter in a pan, add in the hulled strawberries & add the sugar. Shake the pan briskly so the sugar melts & you dont lose any juices. Take it off the heat & keep cold.
During service, put the glazed strawberries on top, alongwith the juices & additionally can dust with some icing sugar on top. Serve cold.


Dont forget to thank me, if your valentine is impressed or simply put, "blown away"... :)
Buon Apetito!!!

Friday, January 29, 2010

Around the world in 17 courses....

I remember my first year..we had to memorise [rather mug up!!] the extended form of 12 courses of menu into 17 courses. It was so difficult...& ultimately during my 3rd year...i had to learn for the sake of campus interviews...chronologically!!!
I have been thinking on a write up...how about Around the world in 17 courses??? I started asking my facebook friends, if they have it with them or not, however, got a reply from an ex-IHM student [my sincere thanks to Dolly Punjabi, who helped me out!!!] in a couple of hours for helping me in this write up.
From where to start & where to end???I dont have a clue ...perhaps should have asked my kitchen friends before starting. In Grand Hyatt, Mumbai we had the campaign of around the world in 5 plates...starting with Swiss Bircher Muesli ending the dinner at Thailand. For me, I am an Indian, less experience ...so cant comment on Around the world in 5 plates....
Anyways, without beating around the bush, lets get back to the topic...
1)Hors d'oeuvre (appetizers)
The French Classical Menu starts with the appetisers. Here, I choose the Russian Zakuskis.They are excellent to go alongwith your specially Vodka. Zakuskis are an array of appetisers, however, it can be made of anything, specially cured fish, meats or even vegetables, generally being pickled.In college, I prepared a type of Zakuski, made with cooked chicken, chopped bacon, binded with panada, then formed into small torpedoes, crumbed & deep fried.
2)Potage (soup)
The appetisers are followed by Soups or Potage coming from the pot.In the olden days, it was a kind of a chunky soup, not the one that we often eat in restaurnts today. It is hearty, nutritious soup, in the beginning of the meal. I would go for Cock-a-Leekie soup, which originates from Scotland. It is basically a broth, made with chicken[some go for boiling fowls] & leek and then finished with chopped prunes.
3)Oeufs[ Eggs]
Moving on to this course, I had a lot of options to select, but I to opt for "Chawanmushi" from Japan.I recollect when I was in Chola, used to wait for the breakfast buffet on Wednesdays & to have my share of Chawanmushi. It is basically steamed egg custard, with some seeds like gingko & an array of vegetables, seafood can be added in it & then steamed. Generally eaten as hot or may be eaten cold. Quite akin to the Chinese steamed eggs.
4)Farineaux (rice & pasta)
The starch--this is the course, which offers you some carbohydrate!!! I would select "Jambalaya", which originates from Louisana state of USA--influenced by the French who settled there for ages. It can be a close cousin of the Spanish "Paella", as this rice dish is cooked with Meat, Vegetables & then followed by seafood.
5)Poisson (fish)
I cant think of anything else other than Fish-N-Chips, a classical British dish..almost any pub, specially one with the touch of England, hotel menus will feature this dish. Now people may fight over, shall it be crumb fried??or batter fried???if Crumb fried...it is ala Anglais, else, ala Francaise. Dont forget the tartare sauce with it!!!
6)Entrée
It resembles the *entrance* of the first meat course or the main course.Since white meat is usually served, I will go for Sweet & Sour Chicken, from the Cantonese region of China. An excellent dish, which I have always eaten while merrymaking with friends.
7)Reléve
This course is said to bring in relief after a long chewing..as guests can savour their food slowly. Ideally big joints of red meats are being selected for this course. I have opted for Ossobucco alla milanese con gremolata--an authentic dish from the  Milan, Lombardy, Italy. At the end of the cooking, the braised veal shanks are seasoned with a herb mix of parsley, grated lemon rind & finely chopped garlic--known as "Gremolata". A more traditional version of this mix adds anchovies & sage--risotto milanese is said to accompany this dish.
8)Sorbet
We were taught in college that our hindi word[which is dependent on many language across India & the world] & also the bengali word "Sherbet"/"Sharbat" has its origins from the word, "Sorbet". May be, may not the be. Generally a flavoured water was served in the olden days or may be a glass of champagne, to wash down the palate after a heavy meal & also assists one so that he can enjoy the meals to follow.
I will select the "Agraz" from North Africa. It is made of almonds, verjuice & sugar, a little acidic in taste due to addition of verjuice.
9)Roti
All joints & cuts, are roasted & served, properly garnished & with classical accompaniments. The list is endless like other courses. It compels me to select Roasted Beef, with Yorkshire Pudding, Jus Roti, Horseradish Sauce---an "authentic Sunday Roast" contribution to our 17 courses.
10)Legumes
Vegetables to be precise, are being served in this course. The Mediterranean Moussaka is what I am selecting for this course, of course the vegetarian version. Quite akin to Eggplant Parmesan [Parmiggiana e Melanzane], but it is for layers after layers...like the lasagne, as instead of lasagne sheets, we use sliced eggplants.
11)Salade
Salads???I dont like Salads, rather any salad, except if someone is ready to serve me a good bowl of Waldorf Salad. I remember making it in college once, for a practical class & secondly during my final term. The External Examiner chef came & started asking me about how did I make the salad. I answered all his questions, with integrity & finally when he started asking me, any roots, or aromatics you put??I forgot that I had a celery stick with me lying extra..........
This salad actually is associated with New York, viz. Hotel Waldorf-Astoria, from which the salad derives its name--made of apples, chantilly dressing, walnuts, celery stick[now, I would prefer grated celeriac], & thats it..pretty nutritious..you must have heard, an apple a day, keeps the doctor away..
12)Buffet Froid
Or in English, its the cold buffet. I was giving it a thought, what can be served, till when Gravlax came to my mind.Its a gift from the Scandinavian countries, where the raw salmon is cured with salt, pepper, dill leaves & mustard & allowed to cure for about a week. The salt actually helps to cook the meat & voila...your cold buffet is ready. You have with bread, crackers or even your favorite sandwich.
13)Entremet de Sucre
A sweet touch after a long way....I will go for crema catalana, from Catalunia , Spain. Quite akin to its French counterpart, which is Creme Brulee, however, there is difference. Crema Catalana is always flavoured, generally cinnamon, orange etc, & is never cooked in a bain-marie. Rather thickened with cornstarch, apart from the eggs & cream part.
14)Savoureaux
Again, another course, which helps to wash down the palate again, after something sweet. How about some Chicken Samosa from India?? I cant write anything more..as I am getting hungry now...you should give a try :)..
15)Fromage
Few days before, we had a "Francaise" group, & their omlette order most of the time being "avec fromage", i.e. with Cheese. French seems to have a passion for cheeses---but not any cheese, they have been fussy with their cheeses. I remember Ms. Chouteau[ a long staying guest of Chola Sheraton], who would love to have her "deaux- oeuf sur le plat, avec fromage"...[fried eggs with cheese].
I would go for Camembert de Normandie, a A.O.P. french cheese, but strictly from Normany, France. It is a soft cheese.
16)Desserts
In contrary with its English pronunciation, it is dry fruits & nuts. Its your option....no more from me!! :)
17)Cafe
At last, the final course of the menu[some people will argue this is not a course at all, wutever....!!]. I will go for Irish Coffee....with a good amount of Irish whisky[I am sure, I will not be high again ;) ].

Last but not the least........
It is said Romans could indulge into 17 courses of menu. How?Its humanly impossible!!They had a small room next to the banquetting hall, where they can let everything out [in other words *vomit* out] & then enjoy the following courses.
Now if you are really interested in this 17 course of menu, why not try?I am there to make for you, provided you are ready to wait for it & pay me the money. Of course both are precious, isn't it???

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

Chi Mangia bene....Mangia Italiano!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Literally, it means "I eat good, I eat Italian".I dont know, since when I started having a special interest. It was never limited to the Italian soups or Italian pastas[Pizzas..well unless it is the real thin crust one..specially baked in woodfired oven] or even the lovely italian desserts.
Perhaps when I was in my second year of my college, I started having a special knack towards to La Cucina Italiano. Again, I dont know, why I had interest in Italian?I dont know. Is it because of its simplicity??Or is it because of it being simple, yet elegant & flavourful??Or it being colorful?? I remember a chef-cum-restaurant owner in Delhi[I am not sure, whether she is Ritu Dalmia or not...] writes in her cookbook that Italian Cuisine is quite simple as our Indian Cuisine[trust me, few things are never simple....unless you are pretty good in it...].
The first soup in college we were taught "Potage Minestrone"--a hearty vegetable soup, flavoured with tomatoes & small elbow macaronis floating around. Honestly, never liked that soup, as it was never made well. Traditionally, in any Italian home, if they are making it, they make it in the morning & as far as I know, it is a summer soup. The soup being made at least 6 hours before & served for lunch. Almost all vegetables like potatoes, tomatoes[blanched, peeled & seeded ones], an array of beans, carrots, zucchini[these being summer squash!!], broccoli, will go in...[but never baby corn!!I remember my associates in ITC Chola Sheraton. I used to frown upon, as this vegetable should not & must not go in..we are cooking Italian not Oriental or American. So they used to put in my absence!!!] There are dozens of variety of Minestrone, so the colour of Minestrone will depend on what you are actually making. From tomato red[which comes due to addition of tomatoes] to spinachy green[due to addition of spinach puree & pesto] or may remain white. Again, any chunky soup in Italiano is Minestrone!!!
Antipastis--I remember, Dec. 28th, 2005. Few of my college friends used to tease me "Gaurav, we dont doubt your theory...but how about in practical??Let us taste your Italiano foood". I had no options but cook Italian for them. The Antipasti I cooked for them was "Crostini con Uova e carote"--a crusty bread been topped with cooked carrots, eggs little scrambled, topped with some cheese & then finished under the broiler. When I put them in the table, it finished in few seconds...I never got any piece :(... However, after that "accident", I have always resorted to Bruschetta con Pomodori. As it is simple, there is actually no fuss about making it. You need some crusty bread, baguette is the best option, unless you want to use your ciabatta for it. Toast them on both sides, rub some garlic on them, arrange neatly some chopped tomatoes fine, some finely shredded basil on top & drizzle some Olio di Oliva or some extravagant Aceto Balsamico. Voila...excellento!!!! And you can put assorted toppings, but make sure it is Italian!!!
Moving on to Primo Piatti....perhaps Pasta has been the most talked or discussed about or the Pizza, than the soups, risotto, polenta or the gnocchi. Who does not love pasta or like pasta??There has to be exceptionals....
Out of Italy, I think "Spaghetti Bolognese" is most popular, but never in Italy!!!An italian might dislike the idea of putting spaghetti bolognese as the pasta is not strong enough to hold the meat on them. Thumbrule:The sauce must cling with the pasta, be it fresh or dry. Perhaps penne, fusilli, farfalle & fresh tagliatelle will go well bolognese than the worldwide favorite counterpart, Spaghetti. Now where from they learnt making pasta?Historians say Marco Polo got it from Chinese, however, other supporters said it was there before Marco Polo visited China. Who knows....perhaps the answer is with almighty...
Next being risotto. I remember, when I was doing my industrial training in 2005 from ITC Sonar Bangla, in some banquet function we had risotto. Simply out of curiosity, I had a spoon...but it was yuck!!!Never asked myself, why was it "yuck"???After a couple of years, bought 1 kg of arborio rice, with some grana padano[the reasonable alternative to Parmiggiano Reggiano] & cooked risotto at home[never learnt from anyone, or if put other way round, no one taught me!!!] & voila...it was really excellent. Perhaps since then I became a great fan risotto, may be more than the pasta. So the key is if it is made nicely, it will taste good. For it to be successful, make good use of ingredients. As a general thumbrule, for risotto with seafood, it is being finished with a good amount Extra Virgin Olive Oil & some chopped herbs, unlike the other ones, where it is finished with some grated Parmesan & a good dollop of butter.Post joining ITC Chola Sheraton, I often used to make "Porcini Risotto" for guests & for myself, it was "Seafood Risotto". It was utterly delicious!!! :)
Regarding polenta...well I dont like to be cut & then served after grilling them. I always like them warm, afresh.
Moving one plate ahead..its the secondi piatto[piatti also!!]. The vast Italian cuisine often boasts about its "Bistecca alla Fiorentina"[Florentine T-bone steak, but no spinach in it!!!], pollo arrosto, maiale, agnello, anatra & the coastal regions with those two islands viz., Sardinia & Sicily...offers some good "fresca frutta di mare"[fresh seafood]. By now, you should be knowing that I am a lover of seafood..from lobster, to octopus..I must try some sea-urchin soup :)...
The little I speak about Italian secondi-s, better it is, else I will feel hungry :(
Now comes, the most awaited course in the Italian Menu, the course that I have always loved...n will always love...rather I can substitute for all courses in the menu..it is Dolci!!!
Perhaps the list is endless-I am always afraid of missing anything...Tiramisu perhaps the most popular, literally it means "Pick me Up". I wish it was frivolous girl!! ;)
Panna Cotta, means cooked cream, sweet enough, but not too sweet like Tiramisu, flavoured with vanilla traditionally, but chef's choice prevails. Often served with mixed berry compote. Zabaglione or the French sabayon, often is used as a base. Italians use their Marsala wines, with eggs & cook over low heat. Have it as it is...or dip your fruits on it...or the list of Gelatos, Mama Mia....it is said that Italians deserved special credit for the modern ice-creams.
Now I am really getting hungry+i will have to cook my lunch....
Let me share a recipe of "Seafood Risotto" before I get busy in cooking...
Risotto con Frutta di Mare Rustica
Ingredients:
Italian Risotto Rice, preferably Arborio or Carnaroli- 75 gm
Onion- 15 gm[finely chopped]
Garlic-15 gm[finely chopped]
Strong, dark shellfish bisque- 200 ml or more[keep hot]
White wine- 50 ml
Mixed seafood- 100 gm
Sundried Tomatoes- 20 gm[finely chopped]
Fresh basil- 1 sprig[finely shredded]
Olive Oil- 15 ml
Extra Virgin Olive Oil- 15 ml
Seasoning- as required

Method:
1.Heat the olive oil in a saucepan & add in the chopped onion, garlic. Cook till lightly colored & then add in the rice & cook nicely till it crackles.
2. Add in the white wine & reduce until almost dry.Add in the sundried tomatoes.
3. Add 1/3 of the stock & stir well, till the dry. Repeat this process till rice is cooked. Season in between & check continuously for additional seasoning.
4.Once almost done, add in the mixed seafood & cook for about a couple of minutes.
5. Once rice is done, add in the chopped basil & finish with Extra Virgin Olive Oil....

Buon Apetito.....

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Off Day Cooking...My love for PORK!!!

Tomorrow is my off...after 1 week, after a lot of hard work throughout the week..I deserve to get one week. Do you this is justified, as others doing less work[may be more paper work by sitting throughout the day]are getting two weekly offs??Perhaps no one can work hard as we do, behind the ranges or preparing for breakfasts etc.
As I wake up by 4 am every morning[my responsibility being of a Breakfast Chef, so I need to make sure my guests dont miss their breakfast..who thinks about me???], on off days, I am a bit relaxed..may be I will get up around 7 am in the morning & start off the day with a heavy breakfast...generally an omlette--of one egg & plain..or cheese sometimes, followed by a couple of chicken sausages & a big bowl of Bircher Muesli & finally my favorite masala tea with two butter cookies & then *socialising* with friends..obviously using the internet...n finally the cooking part...
Of late, I didn't have pork, as I was interested with fish, chicken but now the *hog* seems to beckon me. The advantage of pork being its natural thick lining of fat, which helps in basting[if you are roasting] or the taste of the pork is on its fat. However, you should not have too much of pork fat, as it stands one of the worst fats next after lamb fat-results in thick lining of fat around liver!!! Perhaps for this fat, our classical accompaniment for Roast Pork has been the tart Applesauce for ages...the tartness of the sauce, helps to cut down the fatty pork...
In India, pork is not cooked much except by Christians, few hindus & mostly by the residents of Christians in the small state of Goa. Most of the recipes in Goa are being rendered from the Portuguese influence[which dates back to 16th Century] whilst little could the French influence in Pondicherry or other states. The two famous dishes of Pork from Goa include--Pork Vindaloo & Sorpotel. Pork Vindaloo[originally Vindalho or Vindalhos] is a kind of pickled pork, with vinegar, mustard, red-chilli cooked & then refrigerated for about a week or so & then eaten. The taste--its fiery yet sour in taste. The pork chunks are marinated overnight with malt vinegar, ginger-garlic paste & an array of masalas & slowly cooked. Sorpotel is another recipe, with Portuguese influence, generally made of meat, its offals, livers especially & then thickened with pig's blood. Its again, fiery in taste & at the same time, sour!!
I remember when I was in Chola Sheraton, one of my favourite was "Sweet & Sour Pork"[prior to this, my favourite being Sweet & Sour Chicken, when I was in Kolkata]. Perhaps, an excellent contribution to the world by the Chinese Chefs of Canton[The dish being Cantonese], in which the sour & sweet taste takes care of the fat in the pork.I used to make note of Chef Peterchen making Sweet & Sour pork for his ala carte orders or sometimes the angry chef, Thomas Ho making it. But Peterchen[we used to call him lovingly as "Peetoooo"]used to make a better version. It seemed quite easy to me & thats what I am planning to cook tomorrow. But to mop up the sweet & sour sauce???Mix. Veg rice is easier to me, than the complicated noodles, unless someone is making it for me. Here goes a recipe of Sweet & Sour Pork...
Peterchen's Sweet & Sour Pork
Ingredients:
Pork- 300 gm [boneless or pork chops cut into cubes]
Cornstarch-25 gm
Egg-2
Ginger-10 gm[chopped]
Garlic-20 gm[chopped]
Ketchup-50 ml
Soy Sauce- 15 ml
Vinegar- 20 ml
Pineapple- 100 gm[canned ones, unless u r sure that the fruit is sweet in the market]
Pepper & Salt- As required
Sugar-20 gm
Green Bell Pepper-50 gm[dices]
Onion- 75 gm[dices]
Tomatoes-50 gm[wedges]
Cucumber- 50 gm[ wedges]
Oil-100 ml
Method:
1. Make a batter of cornstarch with seasonings & eggs. Coat the pork & deep fry them. Strain the oil & reserve 40 ml for use.
2. Start with garlic-ginger in the oil & followed by onion, bell-pepper,cucumber, tomatoes & then add in the fried pork. Give it a good stir & then start adding in the sauces/condiments. Add water if required & cook till done.
3. Reduce the sauce if required, as the sauce should be thick pouring--or the way you want.
[why chef peterchen used to put tomatoes & cucumber I don't know. Never asked this question to him--simply followed him blindly!!!]

Activities post lunch???Perhaps sleeping like the *hog*, after having the *hog*, as my ex-colleague Bimal used to tell me....
Happy Cooking.... :)

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Vegetarianism--"Ghaas Phoos...."

"Ghaas Phoos"...this is what Neena said about Chef Buddhadev Gupta in the movie "Cheeni Kum", when he revealed that he is a pure vegetarian, in spite of being a chef of a top Indian restaurant in London. There are a lot of Vegans, being not limited to India, worldwide. Else, there would have been no vegetarian specialities around. As a matter of fact, our ancestors had vegetables in their crude form, before consuming meat. Now people are being more health conscious--less meat, more healthy, more greens in their menu, more vegetables in their menu & so on & so forth.
However, "meat chauvinists" like Gordon Ramsay for example, will keep on yelling that there is nothing like meat--true, even I love meat, equally I love a well-cooked simple vegetarian foods--be it Indian, be it Oriental, European or from anywhere.
In India, vegetarian cooking has altogether a different level. The vegetarian foods,differ from region to region, according to the season & availability. Again, it is differed between normal vegetarianism & Jain vegetarianism. The Jain foods, by default, dont have any vegetables added to it, which grows underground, i.e., potatoes, carrots, garlic, onion, ginger etc are not added in their food. Some also dont eat yoghurt or avoid yoghurt. The normal vegetarian food, is simply made of vegetables & there is hardly any exclusion. However, for orthodox Brahmins, scholars & for orthodox families, they avoid anything that increases heat in the body. According to Ayurveda, if the three humors of the body, Kapha[phlegm], Baata[wind] & Pitta[bile] are balanced, the body remains well. If any of these three are disbalanced, it will result in health disorders. So for these people, onion, garlic, meat, red lentils, sugar, eggs are strictly banned!!They use hing[asafoetida], curry leaves, for creating the flavour profile. Abundance cream, milk are used, so is Ghee, which acts as the cooking medium.
The temple cooking also has a few strict rules, for example Jagannath Temple in Puri, Orissa, India[Eastern coastal area of the country]. This temple can cook food for 1,00,000 people in about one hour. However, the cooking materials, i.e. ingredients are never been processed through machine, but by hand & also new world ingredients like tomatoes, potatoes, green chillies--anything which never originated in the country, is not used in their cooking...
Out of India, if we go to Europe, we will find some important vegetarian dishes, explicitly used as a side-dish for the meat or the fish, however, increasing their portion size & putting something else in the plate, will actually make a vegetarian main course. How about the classic italian "Ratatouille", long been used with Lamb Chops, cant it be served as a main course on a bed moist polenta???Or how about fava beans ragout???The options are endless....
Coming to Oriental, I can discuss only about thai...the noodles, the curries, deep fried foods, the appetisers or the luscious desserts...i simply love it..
Now my veggie friend is asking how to make the perfect poached eggs, so before I close the window & tell her how to make...let me share a recipe...
The Ultimate Ratatouille...
Ingredients:
Olive Oil- 25 ml
Garlic- 15 gm[chopped]
Onion- 100 gm [medium dices]
Yellow Zucchini- 100 gm[medium dices]
Green Zucchini- 100 gm[medium dices]
Green Bell Pepper- 100 gm[medium dices]
Yellow Bell Pepper- 100 gm[medium dices]
Red Bell Pepper- 100 gm[medium dices]
Carrot- 100 gm[medium dices]
Eggplant- 100 gm[medium dices]
Tomatoes- 500 gm[ peeled, seeded & chopped or canned tomatoes]
Thyme- 1 sprig
Basil- 3 sprigs
Seasoning- as required
Bay Leaf -1 no.
Method:-
1. Heat oil in a pan, followed by garlic, bay leaf & the sprig of thyme. Allow to colour the garlic & then add in the onions, followed by zucchini, bell-peppers, carrots & allow to cook in medium heat. Pour a little water if desired.
2. Add in the chopped tomatoes & cook until it becomes semi-dry. Add in the eggplant & keep on stirring.
3. Add the chopped basil, adjust seasoning & remove from heat. Remove the bayleaf before service.
4. Serve hot on a crusty bread.

Buon Appetito!!

Thursday, January 14, 2010

Year 2009--reviewed

Stepping in the year 2010, I often look behind & see, how the year was, which I left behind?Perhaps, a year of struggles, achievements, failures, mistakes, committments, complaints, compliments, satisfaction, worries, fears...n it goes on. Every one has some kind of ups & downs in ones life---its like a cycle of good & bad events.
I still remember January 1st, 2009 pretty well. Here is an excerpt from my diary ...
"I went to Yogodyan Math[around 10 kms from my home in Calcutta, a center of Ramakrishna Mission] to start the new year by visiting the holy shrine of Shri Ramakrishna. Probably, it was required as I am going through such turmoil. I didn't stay there much --I left after the pranaam of Vice-president Maharaj-ji.
After returning home, I turned on the TV to see some old cookery shows or some bengali serials/soaps, chatting with friends on the net, who all are busy with their work. I wonder why such has happened to me?
Now that I have surrendered myself to God--its his responsibility to put me in right place. Its really painful to stay idle at home---once I thought of sitting at home for one year & then take up a job,but I now find it how painful, when you dont have any work. It is this time that you find that there is no one to empathise or with whom you can share your tragedies. I am desperately trying for a job....."
Such was my condition, when my visit to Dubai was hammered due to recession.Staying idle at home for nearly 4 months is really painful. To put it straight, when you have money just flying away & you have no control on it. I hate borrowing money from people & from parents too. Parents have enough--even if they give me something, they will not feel it, but why take?
People suggested me taking up a BPO work for sometime, but seriously I was not interested. For having worked in BPO for 14 months, with screwing up my night's sleep, dont want to get back to the same hell again. During this time, perhaps I started making plans for opening my restaurant, & also kept on trying in hotels for a job. Hotels have got nothing to do, when they have frozen recruitment!!At last, my lord responded--got two offers from ITC Chola Sheraton[A leading cigarette manufacturer of India & also into hotel business] & The Park, Vizag[comparatively lower ...] respectively. I chose the former one, because of many things, firstly the money, secondly the position & finally the facilities...
Chennai was really a strange place for me--firstly the language is the biggest problem here. You may try with Hindi/English around the country, but in Tamil Nadu its a diff. rule---either Tamil or English--hindi if the person you speak to, knows hindi & is willing to speak in Hindi. When alighted from the flight, I was welcomed by the high heat, even in the end of winter & joined ITC Chola Sheraton on March, 2009.
Initially a difficulty was there, as staff issues,mentality of staffs & the omnipresent "assholes".The Exe. Chef was too good to me, though my colleagues warned me that his attitude will change after I become *few months old in his kitchen*. After joining this property, I had to handle a big function of 1500 people, the menu was being simple, like Tenderloin Stroganoff, Veg. Lasagne, Grilled Fish with Mustard Veloute!! Perhaps as of now, did a biggest function---alone. Also it helped to have a good experience of making brown stock & followed by a sauce right from scratch...
I also had some real good friends there, especially Thangapandi--he was really a witty person. He was dark & when I used to take his snap, he would jokingly say,"Gauravji, am I visible??or you need extra light??"--& I shared all kind of fun with him. Fortunately, he was my room mate too...Even in our bad times, we have shared the moments with each other--plans for going abroad, printing CV..he didn't know how to operate a laptop, & I used to teach him...n also little English I tried to teach him. Travelled with him to Tirupati for the first time....n co-incidentally left the company at the same time. He used to say, "Gauravji, perhaps God has send you to me, to help me...I know, only you can help me....". I dont know whether I could really help him or not, however, I introduced him back to our old associate & his past boss too, Chef Pallav Singhal, who was the then Exe. Sous Chef of Hotel Grand Hyatt, Mumbai & he appeared for food trial & got the post of Chef de Partie. I was really happy for him--he deserved it...he has experience of working in kitchen for 14 yrs & left studies whilst he was in standard 9--but a great human being....Before I was about to leave, he used to tell me, "Gauravji, wait for me...in 2 yrs I will come to Dubai....".I remember, all kind of fun & everything..we used to share with each other....joking about the Exe. Chef or discussing about anyone[rather criticising....], personal matters ..all I used to share with him & seek his advise. Many things I learnt from him--one being patience & secondly, how to be stern. However, oneday he failed to keep his patience in the kitchen & started fighting with a kitchen colleague--which I seriously hate. Kitchen is a place, where in front of the hight heat, you have to keep yourself cool!!!
So that was Thangapandi, who I really miss. During my stay in Chennai, most of the visits were limited on off days & post-morning shift. I used to visit Ramakrishna Mission there in Mylapore--a really beautiful Ashrama & attended almost all Ekadashi Days in Ramakrishna Mission & the special interest was in the Halwa-prasad which they used to serve after Ramnaam. I took the advantage of staying in Chennai---covered almost all major tourist spots & religious places as a pilgrim, specially Tirumala Tirupati, Kannyakumari, Rameshwaram, Trivandram[Padmanabhaswamy Temple], Sriperumbudur etc.
In between, I perhaps did my long shift hours, from 6 am till 10:30 pm at night & such shifts continued for few days, as we were going through staff crunch--did a lot of double, triple shifts & took all complimentary offs together & went to Kolkata, my lovely hometown, to give my mother a surprise, specially on her birthday!!!
I went on complimentary offs, keeping my continental kitchen full of employees..& also well stocked!!!When I came back from leave, found 2 staffs left...it was such painful & I was put into night shift!!!It was so pathetic to work in night shift, after coming back from holidays. Thank god, I got one trainee as a staff for me, & another staff, a Bengali to help me in Western Kitchen. The trainee guy, Hemant Sabherwal became a close friend. All kind of stuff, I used to share with him---from Marijuana to beer!!Yes, I admit, I took Marijuana...will not give an excuse that almost all chefs took it...be it Gordon Ramsay, Marco Pierre White or Anthony Bourdain....but wanted some relaxation ...
Days passed on in Chennai...completed 6 months there, but the *call from abroad* started ringing. My kitchen employees celebrated my birthday with all pomp & glory & really in the kitchen way--I was bathed with cream, milk, eggs & was smeared with cake.....I knew, I am leaving very soon!!!
Time was ripe enough--I used to tell myself & started applying for opportunities abroad. The first call came from Crowne Plaza, Bahrain--the Chef Rainer Mueller the Exe. Chef of that property was kind of difficult to deal with--my friend said, if he is like this before joining, what happens when you start working with him??I agreed & cancelled the offer. Secondly, another offer came from Ritz Carlton, Dubai, for Commis 2[but, I am Commis 1 in India]---I accepted, thinking let me see what happens in long run[perhaps a mistake..a mistake, which can never be undone....!!!]!!
As soon my visa got approved, I put my resignation in ITC Chola....I was literally crying everyday, when the thought of leaving Chennai & subsequently leaving my mother came to my mind----I was in love with the "strange" city...but life must move on....
I really miss many funny characters in Chola...those smiling guests who used to wait for my omlette, those irate customers, who were relieved to see me & order for a perfect rare done Angus steak or getting introduced to important guests or creating something special for a guest....& my testings n trials...
I left Chennai on October 14th in the evening...the ticket was being booked 3 months in advance, unknowingly, as I was planning for Holidays during Diwali!!!
After getting back home, I felt I am tired...the continuous night shift ...sleep for only 2-3 hrs in 24 hours...took a heavy toll. I was feeling weak, became thin n lean. I nourished myself & was getting ready for Dubai...to catch my flight to Dubai ....n perhaps Dubai was also getting ready to welcome me...
On 31st October, 2009, Saturday early morning...left Kolkata, with tears in my eyes...n reached Mumbai around 1230 hrs local time. My father came from Nagpur to receive me, but an old colleague from Grand Hyatt, Mumbai reached early to receive me. I also revisited my old place of work...Grand Hyatt, Mumbai..many things have changed....n will keep on changing..for CHANGE is the ONLY CONSTANT!!!!
I left Mumbai for Dubai around 1840 hrs & reached Dubai at 2030 hrs local time. Unfortunately, the Marriott Airport counter didn't have information of my arrival, so I had to wait in the airport for about 1 hour or so...when my "would-be" boss Chef Noor Raskan came to receive me. We chatted for about an hour or so...n finally another person came from India, Chef Sudhanshu Kumar, a would-be demi chef-de-partie of the Italian Kitchen, Splendido.
On the following day I joined The Ritz Carlton, Dubai. People seemed to be really excellent...however, "assholes" will be everywhere. In due course, many of the kitchen staff & non-kitchen staff became my friends....
However, staff crunch is the common thing everywhere, so if there is any big function, I assisted the banquet hot team, apart from the morning breakfast omlette counter, fruits n stuff...
Also saw, how busy it can be during Christmas & New year out of India...here in kitchen..we often used to bully each other, do some legpulling[in the hope that we grow taller n taller], or some teasing....Here..the most senior Papa to the juniormost staff---I tried to adjust with...
Well...this is how 2009 was...Before I finish, a small note. In the month of June, 2009, I went to Nadi reader[they tell your future, by reading our thumbprint, claims the predictions been written 2000 yrs before..] in Chennai,  who told me once I complete 24 yrs, I will go to country of my choice & thereafter anywhere. I completed 24th yr on Aug. 23rd, 2009 & came to Dubai after that...didn't know whether I wanted to come to Dubai...but yes..crossed overseas. Amazingly correct...isn't it???I hope its other predictions come true....

Wednesday, January 13, 2010

Off Day Cooking--Chicken....

I always believe in a self-created thumbrule:
Roasts are meant for winters...
Grills are meant for summers!!!
I dont know, why I created such a thumbrule for myself. Its winter here, perhaps this winter I did a lot of roasts for myself---pork, lamb & today its poulet roti[Fr. means Roasted Chicken](I dont eat beef for a number of reasons. Mainly due to health concerns....].
I have craving for roast chicken since Christmas, since I cook roast chicken, almost every year in my home-sweet-home during Christmas. Perhaps, this year, I didn't cook anything on Christmas, except helping my kitchen staff, to make the function successful!!!
Due to a recent discovery of high purine in my blood level, doctor advised some food restrictions, I changed my plan from seafood risotto to roast chicken. Classical accompaniments for a portion of roast chicken are bread sauce[it makes ur starch accompaniment+sauce],watercress, matchstick potaotes etc. But concepts are changing these days--Mint Sauce is said to go with roast lamb, the sauce is just like water. However, in Dubai I saw some kind of mint jelly---quite sweet in taste, compared to that tart Mint Sauce, as we used to make in kitchen.
Roast chicken is versatile than other roasts. Firstly, it is easy to prepare, secondly it does not need much time-depending on the weight of the chicken you have, thirdly, the leftovers can be used-you can use them as your favorite topping for your pizza, make roast-chicken sandwich,fourthly, you can pop in the tit-bits of roast chicken to your risotto & make some classic risotto with roast chicken & mushrooms. Fifthly, it is quite cost-effective for smaller groups, sixthly, the tit-bits can be used for making some salads,  and seventhly, the left over bones can make a good stock of your choice-brown or white.
Some people are too interested in making some stuffings--but for me, I am happy with the chicken itself. Classical garnishes for roast chicken are like root vegetables--carrots, celeriac, parsnip, potatoes. Generally, I put carrots & potatoes with the chicken while are being roasted. I remember, in Chennai, we used to some pathetic wilted bok-choy alongwith the chicken--perhaps the chef who put this in the menu was thinking of Chinese-European fusion--personally I disliked this fusion!!
Sauce--I am quite skeptical about it. Brown sauce or the more time-consuming demi-glace,seems to be perfect with it or if you prefer, you may go for the easy bread-sauce. It takes around 8-10 minutes to prepare!
Chicken, unfortunately, doesn't have any flavour of its own & doesn't have marbled fat like beef, veal or lamb. So you need some good basting & give it a good marination. In this world, there are plenty of marination---grated lime rind, grated orange rind, array of herbs, seasonings, seasoned oils & what not.
A standard time is suggested for roasting chicken, generally which is 25 minutes per pound + 25 minutes. This time depends on the temperature at which you roast your chicken, the size and weight of the chicken. In between, whilst roasting the chicken, dont forget to baste the chicken, to make sure it gets a crispy skin[Ohh..i love the crispy skin of roast chicken...]& also the end-result is tender. Almost any standard cookbooks advise for a resting time, after any meat is being roasted--this helps in redistribution of juices. So it is with chicken.
Now enough of advise from me. Let me tell you, what I am preparing & it will be followed by a quick recipe. My Menu is "Roasted Chicken, with chestnut puree, balsamic & jus reduction". Vegetables, i would prefer some carrots & beans just little blanched & then just saute in a little butter...thats it. Perhaps, would have indulged in little steamed asparagus n all sorts of fancy stuff....
Ingredients:
For the Roast Chicken
Chicken- 1 no. with the skin on, winglets & giblets removed...
Seasoning-to taste
Rosemary- 1 sprig
Oil- 15 ml
Butter-20gm[for basting]
Thread- 1/2 mtr [for tying]
For the Chesnut Puree
Chestnuts- 50 gm
Milk- 100 ml
Seasonings-To taste
For the Sauce
Balsamic Vinegar- 60 ml
Brown Sauce- 60 ml
For the Vegetables
Carrot- 50 gm
Haricot Beans- 50 gm[better known as "French beans"]
Method:
For the roast chicken
Turn on the oven & temperature to be 200 Deg C. Put in the chicken in the roasting tray & roast as per the timeline, I suggested before. Dont forget to baste the chicken with fat!!!The breastside up, not down.
For the sauce
Heat the jus with the balsamic & reduce till half.Season & keep hot.
For the Chestnut puree
Boil the chestnuts in milk till tender. Season & make a fine puree. Keep hot.
For the vegetables
Peel , trim & cut the carrots into sticks. Trim the ends of the french beans & leave whole. Blanch & saute in little butter & seasoning.


A Chef used to say, "Roast a meat for about 100 times, to know, how it is being roasted--the chemical & physical changes whilst it is being cooked". He was not wrong...
Happy Cooking!!!

Saturday, January 9, 2010

The Saga of Biryani...

Today afternoon, I was discussing about Indian food with my *pastry* colleagues, who are not Indians or not even related to them--when I uttered the name Biryani, their faces conveyed me a message, that they love Biryani. I promised, that I will cook it soon & let them savour the famous legacy of Dum Pukt Cuisine[ foods which are slowly cooked in a sealed handi].

Even I love Biryani-perfectly cooked in "Dum" for about an hour in slow fire & the end result.....is heavenly. Biryani is perhaps the most famous legacy left by the Moghuls, before they continued to be the Emperors & continued to be ruled by English. There is no proven history of Biryani--who brought it in, how was it cooked, however, the Royal Cooks of Awadh[Present day Lucknow, UP, India] & of Nizam[Of Hyderabad, India] seems to have perfected it. Hyderabad is said to have 108 types of Biryani!!
Generally, Biryani is classified according to its mode of preparing, chiefly, the Kacchi Biryani, where rice, mutton & the masalas, pastes & several ingredients are being mixed together & then cooked on slow fire till done, while Pakki Biryani is made by half-cooked rice & half cooked meat being layered in a sealed container & cooked till done.

Biryani must have the following ingredients, without which it cannot be called "Biryani", chiefly, Rice[ long grain Basmati rice, being the most used one], meat[you can replace with fish or any other meat, in strictest terms, Vegetable biryani is impossible!!!], spices etc.
Awadhi Biryani or Lucknawi Biryani is pretty flavourful, as before the biryani is being cooked by dum, the rice on top is drizzled with some Kewda essence, some rose water & concentrate of Sweet Edible Ittr-which makes it aromatic. Saffron is used too....for some colour.
The Kolkata Biryani or the Calcutta Biryani[the place I belong to] is also excellent, at par with Lucknawi Biryani, only difference is addition of a whole big potato in the Biryani.
Biryani in Chennai is pretty spicy, due to the local preference & influence...& they add tomatoes!!! Mumbai Biryani is also some kind of spicy, but to my experience, perhaps horrible Biryani I have ever had....Chicken Curry & Rice being layered, cooked in micro & served right away....is that what you call Biryani???Well, as long as those Biryani eaters are happy, I should not & must not object them....
Hyderabadi Biryani is less flavoured, only you get the flavour of rice & the meat..often served with a garnish of boiled egg & some salad perhaps.

Raita has been served with Biryani for ages, may be simple cumin raita, to Burhani Raita[ a kind of cooked raita], I personally prefer Cucumber & Mint Raita, as it suits my tasting buds. The reason for raita going with the biryani is simply to aid in digestion. Anything sour is being served with something heavy or high in fat, so that it cuts down the fat & helps in digestion[ this is for the same reason, you serve Mint Sauce with Lamb roast, Red Currant jelly for Mutton Roast or Orange sauce for Roasted Duck....]

Any gravy is not required for Biryani, unless the rice is too dry. In Kolkata, we get "Mutton Chaanp"[ the last word being pronounced in a nasal tone...], in which the mutton ribs are slowly cooked with lots of ghee and array of masalas & pastes...& goes excellent with Biryani--this is how I eat, when I am in Kolkata[Calcutta].
Now I am feeling hungry, whilst discussing about Biryani with you all...let me make some biryani soon & share a recipe with you, which I use...its with Mutton....
Ingredients
1 kg Lamb leg, boneless, trimmed, cut into 1.5 inches chunks
500g Rice, white, long-grain, Preferably Indian Basmati
50 g Clarified butter, Actually Ghee
200 g Onions, sliced
25 g Ginger root, grated
25 g Garlic, finely chopped
200ml Yogurt, plain
5g red chilli powder
Salt- To taste
5g  whole hot garam masala, consisting Green Cardamom, Bay
Leaf,Cloves, Sha Morich, Cinnamon, nutmeg & mace, all to be used whole+1 tsp of garam
masala powder
25 g Mint leaves
10 mL Water, rosewater & kewra water.
0.5 g Saffron threads
Method:
1. First wash the rice for three-four times & soak them in plenty of water for at least 1/2 hr.
2.Make a fine paste of ginger-garlic. Marinate the lamb pieces with yoghurt(leave 20 ml of the yoghurt),half of ginger garlic paste, salt,
red chilli powder/paprika & keep aside for 45 minutes.
3.Heat some 50 ml oil in karai & fry the onions until brown, but dont allow them to burn. Meanwhile take a stockpot & fill it water.
Season with salt & put half of the whole garam masala in the water & put it on a boil.
4.Once you are done with the onions, allow them to cool & make a fine paste, (of half of the fried onions) adding a very little water.
5.Once the water comes to a rolling boil, add the rice after draining the water & cook until it is done by 75%(once u bite the rice, you feel that it is still raw.)Drain the rice immediately & keep in a colander.
6.Heat half of ghee in a karai, temper with the left over whole garam masala, add the rest of the ginger-garlic paste & cook until the raw flavour is no more. Add the fried onion paste, red chilli powder, lamb pieces & continue cooking until the Lamb is almost done. Season the curry & then strain the juices, separate the mutton & keep aside.
7.Now in a thick bottomed dekhci(or a stock spot)put in the strained curry, line the lamb pieces & add half of the mint leaves & some
salt. On top the lamb pieces, arrange the undercooked rice. Put the rest of the mint leaves on top, the fried onions, some salt, rest of
the ghee, garam masala powder, some salt. To the left over yoghurt, add the saffron threads, & mix well. Now pour this on top of the
rice in zig-zag motion. Pour in the rose & kewra water in same way. Add 2 drops of sweet edible ittr if you have. If you dont have, no
issues. Even you can make biryani without any essence, if you dont like.
8.Cover the stockpot with a tight fitting lid, & if possible, either put a weight on top, or seal the edges/rim of the stockpot with atta dough
& put on slow fire for about 15 minutes. Then put on high-flame for about 10-15 minutes & then keep aside for 15 minutes. This allows
the flavour to develop & gives an excellent biryani.
9.Before opening the lid, give nice toss, & serve with kachumber raita.
 
Generally, I round it off, with a sweet note..."Phirni"[ kind of rice pudding but with powdered rice, milk & Sugar]however, you can have anything...or even nothing--the choice is yours. During my good old days of training, in ITC Sonar Bangla, Calcutta I had a spoon of Mutton Biryani, being made by the old Grandmaster Chef of India & Master of Dum Pukht Cuisine--Chef Imtiaz Mohammad Qureshi & the taste...well I cant describe it..the mutton melts in the mouth leaving a sweet aroma.......

Friday, January 8, 2010

The Story of Curry...

Who has never heard of curry?Chicken Curry, mutton curry, egg curry, veg curry & what not?In Ritz Carlton, Dubai, in our staff cafetaria, which they call passionately "The Cafe" have Chicken Curry & Mutton curry as a regular in their lunch/dinner menu, perhaps their target is the Asians & all the curry lovers..

The term "Curry" rules everywhere--be it Thai Curries[yes, they got 5 kinds], Indian Curries [From Western "Kadhi", to Eastern thin curries] & also the Curry of England. History says that England already knew about curries in 13th Century, which they prove by records. What about the origin? Of course it is from India. There is nothing set for the "curry", unlike the readymade "Curry" powder, which you get in your grocers. Actually, there is nothing like curry powder in Indian households[unless they would like to make some Continental Curry Sauce]!! Any Indian household will have powdered masalas stocked in their kitchen. For example, Cumin powder, Coriander Powder, Turmeric Powder, Red Chilli Powder, Garam Masala Powder...& it continues.All these masalas, as used by personal preferences, adds the flavour to the curries [according to the flavour profile you would like to build]. The "Kadhi" is far off the "Curry"--generally made of yoghurt simmered with little turmeric & besan [chickpea flour]& tempered with some mustard leaves, some curry leaves & asafoetida, for a Jain Curry, else one may put some fried onion dumplings, for a Punjabi style "Kadhi" or some leaves for Bathua Kadhi.
Moving to the North, or may be around Delhi, UP, anything that comes with a gravy is considered to be a curry. A curry, generally contains onion, ginger-garlic paste, tomatoes [can be finely chopped or pureed], powdered masalas, like cumin, coriander, turmeric & red chilli powder & seasonings.Even the punjabi "Butter Chicken" can be considered to be a curry, since it is served with a gravy. A Curry can be fiery hot, or may be too mild--all depends on the addition of chillies or crushed peppercorn. Moving to far east of India, Bengal's curries depend according to the source. A bengali of east origin[i.e. from the present bangladesh] will have thin curries, whilst that of west [i.e. present West Bengal] will have thick ones.
Moving down to South, most of the curries are dry in nature, ultra-spicy, specially curries are like Chicken curry, madras beef curry & so on & so forth..
I am not dealing with the Thai Curries or of the Pan-Asian, as I tried to focus on telling you what curries are all about. Next time, when you hear about curries, dont panic as it is a spicy Indian stuff [Yes, many foreigners presume so...]rather wait for the food to arrive & give your tongue an opportunity to savour the food....
I end up here, with a small recipe of Chicken Curry, as one makes it in ones home...edition, deletion, modification--all in your own risk...I must not be held responsible. A person who has visited Darjeeling from Kolkata, must have noticed the most popular roadside sign "Hurry Burry Spoils the Curry"--so before you start making curry, make sure, you have sometime to devote for it..

Homestyle Chicken Curry
Ingredients:
Chicken- 1 kg
Salt- to taste
Turmeric- 1 tsp
Oil- 25 ml
Onion[sliced]- 100 gm
Ginger-Garlic Paste- 2 tbsp
Yoghurt- 100 gm
Tomatoes- 100 gm [chopped]
Turmeric Powder- 1 tsp
Coriander Powder- 1tsp
Red Chilli Powder- 1tsp
Potatoes - 3 nos [cut into wedges]
Salt- to taste
Method:
1. Marinate the chicken with salt, turmeric powder & keep aside.
2. Heat Oil in a kadai, & start sweating the onions, followed by ginger-garlic paste, till the fat seperates. Add in the yoghurt, tomatoes & the powdered masalas & cook for some time. Add in the chicken pieces & the potatoes & coat well with the masalas. Add in water, enough to cover chicken & cover & cook till chicken is done. Season well.
3. Serve hot, with rice, roti, paratha ...
[To make it spicy, you may increase the quantity of red chilli powder or add in lots of chopped chillies....]

Thursday, January 7, 2010

My home food..on an off day...

I am a bengali--"by bone", as Shakespeare used to say[His verbiage. He was an English, not a Bengali]. So often, people say that I cannot live without fish[in other words, Bengali=Fish eater]. This is not completely true. I am quite choosy about fish--my forefathers being from the present Bangladesh, we are supposed to have Hilsa [some kind of tradition], however, I dont like Hilsa, only because of innumerous bones. The fish is oily[as people say, this oil is good for health], nice flavor, but the bones pisses me off. My favorites being Rohu[kind of carp], Pomfret, Bekti[perhaps, some kind of Sole or Sea Bass], Snapper & I am a lover of seafoods, including Octopus[yet to try sea-urchin!!].
Even today, most of the Bengali households have fish as a must in their menu--be it simple "Maacher Jhol" [braised fish in light gravy] or be it "Doi Maach"[fish stewed in yoghurt] or "Maacher Paturi"[steamed fish parcels rolled in banana leaf]--the latter two being specially on festive occassions. Often the hassle-free "Maach Bhaja"[ fried fish] is being served.
A bengali meal often starts with bitters, specially bitter gourds deep fried, followed by a stew of vegetables cooked with bitter vegetables. Then Dal comes, alongwith some fries[ aubergine, pumpkin, marrow or potatoes], then some braised vegetables, followed by fish. After fish, generally, meat[chicken, mutton] is served & then chutney[not the readymade stuff] generally made of tomatoes, raisins, dates or of papaya is being served accompanied with fried Poppadams & finally the array of sweets--from Rasgulla[ cottage cheese dumplings in sugar syrup] to Mishti Doi[ Sweet Yoghurt].
The cooking medium depends --if you want to make something light in taste, ghee or vegetable oils are preferred, whilst for something rich, mustard oil is added for some pungency.
Amongst all these, I personally prefer Shorshe Maach, which I am cooking today, as today is my weekly off. Shorshe[mustard] goes really well with Fish, as it masks any kind of pungency in the fish & works as an excellent combination [dont you put mustard for marinating fish sometimes?].The fish is generally marinated with little salt & turmeric[an antiseptic] & some mustard oil & left aside for a couple of hours. Mostly, Rohu or any freshwater fish is preferred with a firm body, like Pomfret also works excellently. After this you just fry them in mustard oil & leave aside[since you are going to braise them again, dont overcook while frying & also dont throw the oil, as you will make your gravy in this oil].
In the same oil, heat well, & add in the Paanchphoran[ a 5 spice mix, like Chinese ones, however, the composition is different]-mixture of Sweet fennel, White Cumin, Onion seeds, Fenugreek seeds & Mustard seeds[This spice mix depends from person to person, like Garam Masala. Personally I avoid fenugreek seeds, as it is bitter!!!] followed by some sliced onion, some ginger-garlic paste. Once cooked,you can add some potatoes & tomatoes[of course for volume!!!] & cook them till almost done. You have to add some powdered masalas, like turmeric powder, red chilli powder, cumin powder [ traditionally, pastes were used, instead of the readymade powder] & cook them, add a little water & then pop in the fried fishes , adjust salt, & cook till the fishes are heated through. Finally, add the mustard paste & dont boil!!!If you boil, the gravy will become bitter in taste, & spoil all your hardwork. Off the range, you may drizzle some mustard oil on top[ as you put some olive oil whilst finishing your Pasta alla Italiano or may be any other Italian hot food]to add some pungency or flavour, some slitted green chillies & loads of coriander. This food goes excellent with steamed rice--not any other rice doesn't seem to pair with it.
Traditionally, clay pots were used in Bengali cooking, whilst fuel was wood, coal or charcoal--when there was no LPG, neither steel, aluminium entered the household. Thanks to their availability, that they are generously, & helps us to save our "valuable time".
Today was my off, so I thought of recreating this same classic with a different approach. How about adding some squid in it, & for the base, use lobster stock???
Here is the recipe of what I cooked today...
Ingredients:
Fish-300 gm[cut into cubes, with/without skin--Rohu(carp), or any firm fleshed fish will go--I made with Shark]
Squid- 200 gm [well cleaned, cut into medium rings]
Turmeric Powder- 10 gm
Salt- As required
Mustard Oil - 50ml
Mustard Seeds whole- 20 gm
Panchporan Mix- 1 tsp
Sliced Onion- 50 gm
Ginger-Garlic Paste- 15 gm
Tomatoes- 100 gm[cut into wedges]
Potatoes- 100 gm]cut into wedges]
Turmeric Powder- 5gm
Cumin Powder- 5 gm
Red Chilli Powder- 3 gm
Seasoning- As Required
Lobster Stock- 100 ml
Green Chillies- 1 no [ slitted]
Freshly Chopped Coriander- For garnish
Method:
1.Make a fine paste of the mustard seeds. You may strain the paste. Wash the fish, process the squid, if you dont get cleaned ones. Marinate them with turmeric, salt, & little oil & leave aside for 10-15 minutes.
2. Heat the around 25 ml of the mustard oil & fry the fish [not the squid initially] & when you are about to finish pop in the squid & fry for only 30 seconds & take off the kadai.
3. Temper the oil with Panphoran mix & then add in the sliced onion,ginger-garlic paste & cook till there is no more raw flavour of the paste. Add in the tomatoes & potatoes, till almost done, add in the powdered masalas & cook for sometime.
4. Add in the lobster stock, reduce a little & add in the fried fishes[not the squid now] & allow to cook through.
5.Check the seasoning, & add in the squid & cook for only 30 seconds[ so you are cooking your squid for only 1 minute!!!].
6. Add in the mustard paste [but dont boil] & take it from the flame. Drizzle the left over mustard oil, slitted chillies, & garnish with loads of freshly coriander chopped..
Serve hot with steamed rice. To round off,how about some Bengali sweets???Roshogolla [thats how it is being pronounced in bengali] or Rosh-Malai??Often I treat myself with some chocolate...the choice is yours..
Happy Cooking!!!

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

A little bit about myself...

I left my last post incomplete...I didn't introduce myself...
I was born to my parents[of course, to prove science!!!!] on August 23rd, 1985, a friday in Kolkata--popularly known as the "City of Joy"[the city being joyful round the year...from Christmas to Durga Puja to all round festivals, & also strikes, etc...]. I am not a born chef, but had interest in cooking right from childhood. Be it by seeing the TV shows, recipe books, or mom's magazine. Amongst TV shows, Chef Sanjeev Kapoor was an inspiration during my schooldays, I remember Zee TV used to air his program on Sundays "Khana Khazana".
However, never thought of taking cooking as an art[As Amitabh Bachchan said in the movie Cheeni Kum, that cooking is not a profession--it is an art, more than the pictures in the restaurant for show...], until I joined the Hotel Management Institute in Kolkata, post high school.Even never decided to join hotel management institute, until a friend told me, as I wanted to be a scientist or may be a chartered accountant or even a Business Analyst.
Anyways..I joined the college, did my training successfully..however, as we say "Man proposes, but God [note:not a woman] disposes"---I lost one year in college, when I worked in a BPO of HSBC. During that one year, I lost my interest in cooking--even started forgetting all my basics.
However, once the movie "Cheeni Kum" helped me to regain my lost interest [Paradise Regained???] & I started battling in the kitchen in my 3rd year & in my campus interviews....
Yes, it was a battle...a dirty battle, as your friend is your tough competitor...all kind of swearing in your name, betraying, n what not...
After giving all kind of tough fight, I could secure to get an opening with Grand Hyatt, Mumbai as a Commis Chef position[an entry level position in Kitchen], this hotel being the biggest hotel in India, as of the date. I worked there for a couple of months, but I was frustrated with the poor pay, as most of my room rent was being paid from my salary--so I was not left with almost anything.
I was working in the Room Service Kitchen there--a kind of Indian kitchen, with a small pantry, a tandoor & thats it & in a small kitchen 4-5 people just fighting for co-existance. I was really slogging there...working for about 12-13 hours a day[ sometimes more than that] without any extra pay[ I am not aware of any Indian hotel, which pays you overtime, do inform me, if you know of any...]. My Sous Chef, who I used to report to, was an *asshole* as the Exe. Chef Jean Christophe Fieschi used to tell us ....& I got the second one, who was a better human being, but as a person, was no good. He always used to give me hardtime---it helped me to work under pressure, & specially when you have continuous orders, with a row of KoT[a technical term meaning "Kitchen Order Tickets"]. I remember, once I had around 12 KoTs with me, all food are waiting to be picked up from the counter, but the room service doesn't have any trolley & hotbox to carry the food to the guest's room...serving 694 rooms, is not that easy.
Often did night shifts there,[I think  mostly, helped me to avoid my Sous Chef, also increase my speed].Friday & Saturday nights used to be busy like anything---continuous orders from the midnight menu in the Italian speciality restaurant..."Celini" [diff. phases of moon].
I was looking for some changes, as I was getting tired of this hotel & kitchen, firstly, the pay was too low, secondly, I was working in a kind of Indian kitchen with a small pantry, thirdly, the chef was giving me hardtime,  & forthly, I was interested in Italian cuisine.
----
I joined ITC Chola Sheraton, on March 9th, 2009 as a Kitchen Associate in their Western Kitchen. I got what I wanted for a long time--Continental Kitchen. Here I got a lot of responsibilities, & this place helped me hone my skills in western cuisine, viz., to have a strong hold on making all the mother sauces, how to cope up with continuous orders & one man show, innovative ideas [from seafood risotto, to Sangkaya to Som Tom Esan, Caesar Salad, Ravioli stuffed with Ratatouille], also making everything right from scratch, with minimum ingredients.
The chefs in the Indian Kitchen always had the habit of complaining that without cream, butter & oil they cant make food. I challenged them & made Dal Makhni without a touch of any of these [My friend N.Thangapandi was amazed to taste it & said it is the authentic!!!].
Here the Exe. Chef [I would rather call him a kinda psycho] started giving me hardtime[ He knew it well, I can run his deptt. only] & told me oneday "What do you think of yourself??I can run the kitchen better than you can", however, his own man screwed up a HWC[Handle With Care] guest & the Chef started calling amidst midnight, "Gaurav, can you come to the hotel & speak to the guest??". "Sorry, Chef, I dont have my uniform in my locker, " I replied. "Tomorrow, what shift are you doing?", he asked & I said I am off for the following day. He ordered, " Dont take any off till the guest is here, I want you to come down tomorrow in the evening shift". "Ok Chef, done!!!", was my reply.
However, the call for overseas started ringing for me, I had an offer from Crowne Plaza, Bahrain, however, the Exe. Chef was too authoritative before I could join. So I declined the offer, after which I got an offer from Ritz Carlton, Dubai & recently joined here in the banquets+cold section.
Few of my signature foods:
Cappuccino of Mushroom Soup[This being my favorite, works excellent if you have some boiled moong dal paste]
Seafood risotto[ not the boring white color, a somewut darker texture I achieve, due to some generous addition of good seafood bisque & sundried tomatoes--I dont like it;but I love it]
Porcini Risotto[ I also like it]
Low fat Dal Makhni
Bengali style fish curry[ I can even lick the plate, if served with steamed rice...]
Butter Chicken
Sangkaya

Raspberry Cheesecake
Pumpkin Tart

Monday, January 4, 2010

The First Pampering...


Hi All...
Its been a longtime, that I have blogged...the last one being on one of my favourite pursuits--Astrology[http://gauravastro.blogspot.com], however, now I feel, I should communicate to the world about my profession.
Sometimes, I feel, until I am pampered, I cannot do well. Even you wont--until pampered.
In kitchen, we are pretty raw--profanities--be it for fun, for some *show* or when one is really pissed off is globally accepted. He can be a highly professional chef swearing in the kitchen, or a grand masterchef, who doesn't even know how to sign a request or write his name--all using profanities.Is there any diff. between any two??Perhaps it is only the education..
For myself, I like only for some fun, or when I am my own target. Yes, I get pissed off with me sometimes, when I cannot cope up with some uncontrollable situations, n I curse myself. But when I am serious??I dont do to anyone else, as I feel it to be quite unprofessional to abuse others[CAVEAT:I may do so, when my target is not in front of me, or my voice will not be audible to him]--be it any *f* word, *a* word or whatever...
As of now, I have listened to a lot of abuses--be it the Grand master chef of India, another pampered chef of ITC group of hotels, or my previous exe. chef Paul Noronha of ITC Chola Sheraton or the Exe. Chef of Grand Hyatt, Mumbai, Chef Jean Christophe Fieschi.
I sometimes recollect, Anthony bourdain claiming that this business[food business]grows assholes, which is our principal export.He also considers himself as an asshole & tells you "Probably you are an asshole too...!!!!"