Part I
My memories of Hong Kong was almost like ...it is just another city of China (pardon my geography --then or even now). Fake goods, noodles, mafias, karate kids, asians, harbour, star ferry and food porn-- whatever any Bruce Lee movie portrayed about China or even Hong Kong if ever and Anthony Bourdain's No reservations (a few years before).
Going by a few words above, you will go astray my friend, because Hong Kong is not exactly, what I or many people think of it to be..
Hong Kong handed over to China by the UK after their 99 year lease, is very special (thats why, often referred to as Hong Kong SAR of China), thus all rules of (communist) China does not fit in Hong Kong. It has its own flag, own set of rules, anthem,language, currency and everything of its own right-which brings me to this fact that any Hong Konger will get offended if you generalise them with Chinese--believe me, they are NOT!!
So, this March/April I planned to visit Hong Kong for 3 days. Reason: Sole reason being this place for the absolute Food porn(yes, delectable Cantonese cuisine), some discussion for future endeavours and also meet my BFF, Mr. Ivan Ho and my ex-boss and confidance, Chef Simon Wipf. Stay: Just a small box to sleep at night would be enough and chose a necessity over luxury--just a backpacker's room for 3 nights--paid just a little over US$65.00 (cheapest that money can buy).
May 5, 2014
Day 1- Hong Kong
I arrived around 530 pm (local time, +8hrs GMT), after a long flight from Dubai and thank god, Indian passports have Visa on Arrival (which makes this travel hassle free) and then on towards Tsim Sha Tsui (TST in Short). Initial hiccup: The taxi driver doesn't speak English. With the help of some locals (who can speak both cantonese and english), the taxi driver was instructed the way to the hotel. I must tell you at this point that the H.K.International Airport is located in Chek Lap Kok in Lantau Island. The other parts of Hong Kong are Kowloon, New Territories and Hong Kong Island. TST is in Kowloon is quite far from the airport---around US$ 40.00 by taxi (including tolls for the journey and return etc etc).
It took about 30 mins from the airport to a congested street of Nathan Road with an array of high rise buildings, crowded streets and touts everywhere--looking to sell either their tailored blazers, contacts of masseurs or else, ready to pick up any tourists to sell a room...
"Sir, one room for HK$ 200.00 a night", was the request when I came out of the taxi.
"Sorry, my room is booked in the day and night hotel", I replied--intimidated the way he was following me.
"Yes, how much they charge you, ?? HK$300.00", was the call from him, still following me.
"No...where is the way for Block "D"?, I asked him.
"That way", he pointed and left quickly!
"Welcome Gaurav to your backpackers' hotel or inn--in this box of 144sq feet, you will spend your next three nights," I told myself.
After a quick shower, Chef Simon came to see me--surprised that he could find that building, Chunking Mansion out of all the mess..
Destination: Ozone Bar, Ritz Carlton Hong Kong.
Ivan was expecting me there, as per his post in FB, so despite I wanted to give him a surprise..it was not a surprise. On his recommendation Chef Simon and I tried the beer "Estrella Damm Inedit" and some snacks to go along with that...just not your average lager, ale or stout! At least, if I may say--this beer doesn't suck at all. If you like your corona with a lemon or Guiness or Budweiser--but this beer is way better, tastier and lot more different than the beer you are used to.
We were sitting there for a couple of hours (in the busy bar) talking about life, work, people and yes, about Hong Kong. The weather was too poor to take some pictures of the magnificent Hong Kong skyline....so afterwards, fixed a time to meet Ivan the following day, bid him bye and walked all the way towards my lodge.
On the way back, array of restaurants..still open at 2230 and catering to their patrons--cantonese/chinese barbecue, noodle houses and what not...I was too tired--all I wanted was to sleep!
May 6th, 2014
Day 2 -- Hong Kong
Though, I woke up early in the morning, I fell asleep again, only to wake up again around 11am! My scheduled time to meet Ivan was at 1130 am, in Times Square HK. I was running late!! I texted him immediately and took a shower, munched a little snack, what I was carrying and took a cab to rush to Times Square.
Time for some Cantonese fiesta today..and it was time for Dim Sum lunch, in Times Square, "Heichinrou" restaurant. His mom and sister were already waiting, so without beating around the bush, it was time to order for lunch. My only advise to Ivan, "Today you just order and I will eat!"..though, I had the request for the roasted goose, crispy pork and all were taken care of.
First stuff was deep fried rice dumpling with assorted meat. Delicious!
Second stuff was deep fried squid with salt and pepper. Unctuously good--almost like a tempura.
Then comes, rice crepes with XO sauce. Just wow and wow!
Now comes the main course..steamed pork dumplings with caviar. Lord..thats good!
Steamed Prawn dumplings. Heavenly
Baked BBQ Pork Buns---another unctuously tasty bun, right from the oven and then steamed rice rolls with twisted crullers.
All tasty, delicious and the absolute food porn. You need some hell of a skill to make all these stuff (at least I need)...Lord, thank you! I wanted to taste all these food for long.
After having some sweetened bean curd and almond delight (full of almondy goodness) we headed onwards to have some pastries in Zoe pastry shop--just few steps away.
It is a small restaurant, with delicate pastries and cakes---just eat and go. We had millefeuille, hazelnut cake, Mango cheese cake, lychee cake.. (+an espresso for me, so that I dont fall asleep)..all were damn good!
Next stuff-- Tram ride
Operated by Veolia Transport, Hong Kong Tramways have been operating for more than a century (makes me nostalgic--the same tramway we have in Kolkata) with all trams run electricity and are double decked. Hop in and hop off according to your destination but all you pay for any destination and any route just HK$ 2.30...cheap..right?
So, our journey started from Hennessy Road and on towards Hong Kong Central (Forgot to mention, I was in Hong Kong Island) where we stopped to buy something.
Conpoy or Ganbei is dried scallop--base for many cantonese sauces, cooking and also the base for the "XO sauce". I wanted to buy it, for making my own XO sauce and also some other stuff. Intense aroma of scallops--sweet! After buying my stuff and also going through some other shops specialising in dried seafood, we hopped in the tram again, now to go towards Wan Chai district.
I was talking to Ivan about future plans, future in Hong Kong and many many stuff! On the way to Wan chai, just noticed that Hong Kong lacks one resource--Land. The city has money (all you need to know is how to catch them) but there is scarcity of Land. Thats why, people find whatever piece of Land they can get, just build a skyscraper with the smallest rooms possible.And rent or price of an apartment? Well, quite high!
It was almost 5 pm-- Time for High tea!
No, not your dainty sandwiches, warm scones with clotted cream and some gorgeous pastries. It is a little rough-- you have stew of beef brisket with fish head balls, HK Toast and yes, some tea. The HK toast, which I liked especially is of course good for my cholesterol. Two thick slices of white bread, toasted and smeared with generous amount of condensed and sandwiched with a thick slice of salted butter. All I can say is "Delicious"!
It was a Holiday in Hong Kong--Birthday of Buddha according to their calendar (whichever calendar they are following) so people are out. Offices are closed mostly and a day to celebrate, pray or eat--eat vegetarian or non-vegetarian if you are not Buddhist!
Time was moving slowly for Dinner, to join us for dinner was Ivan's Dad.
We head towards TST for dinner and driving through almost no traffic--we reached there in no time to eat a very traditional Cantonese fare--something, I will be able to eat only in Hong Kong, if I am not exaggerating.
A traditional layup in the table and courses just keep on coming one by one.A very simple noodles with some vegetables, followed by the decadent roasted goose with plum sauce, and then goose intestines tossed with some sauce and vegetables, followed by fish congee, the crispy barbecued pig, sizzled chinese cabbage, fried fish with corn, and sweetened red bean stew. The goose was just way better and tastier than I though it to be and perhaps, the crispy suckling pig made me rethink, that I to redefine "crispy"..perhaps the crispiest food I ate ever. I had a very love-hate relationship with congee till I ate this one. I fell in love with Congee--for one evening, if my cholesterol goes high, my weight increases by 5 kg --I dont mind, cause the food was so, so good!!
Ivan, his sister and I--we headed towards an ice-cream shop, where they make ice-creams right in front of you with liquid nitrogen. Four flavours and changes every two weeks. Flavours are unique everytime--I opted for the Bakewell Tart--a bakewell tart in every aspect while Ivan opted for the Hong Kong Toast (perhaps, because of it being his comfort zone) whilst his sister tried the one with greek yoghurt.
I went back home, bidding Ivan and his family a bye..and being a little drowsy--after all the good food I was eating throughout the day and it was time for me to sleep!
My memories of Hong Kong was almost like ...it is just another city of China (pardon my geography --then or even now). Fake goods, noodles, mafias, karate kids, asians, harbour, star ferry and food porn-- whatever any Bruce Lee movie portrayed about China or even Hong Kong if ever and Anthony Bourdain's No reservations (a few years before).
Going by a few words above, you will go astray my friend, because Hong Kong is not exactly, what I or many people think of it to be..
Hong Kong handed over to China by the UK after their 99 year lease, is very special (thats why, often referred to as Hong Kong SAR of China), thus all rules of (communist) China does not fit in Hong Kong. It has its own flag, own set of rules, anthem,language, currency and everything of its own right-which brings me to this fact that any Hong Konger will get offended if you generalise them with Chinese--believe me, they are NOT!!
So, this March/April I planned to visit Hong Kong for 3 days. Reason: Sole reason being this place for the absolute Food porn(yes, delectable Cantonese cuisine), some discussion for future endeavours and also meet my BFF, Mr. Ivan Ho and my ex-boss and confidance, Chef Simon Wipf. Stay: Just a small box to sleep at night would be enough and chose a necessity over luxury--just a backpacker's room for 3 nights--paid just a little over US$65.00 (cheapest that money can buy).
May 5, 2014
Day 1- Hong Kong
I arrived around 530 pm (local time, +8hrs GMT), after a long flight from Dubai and thank god, Indian passports have Visa on Arrival (which makes this travel hassle free) and then on towards Tsim Sha Tsui (TST in Short). Initial hiccup: The taxi driver doesn't speak English. With the help of some locals (who can speak both cantonese and english), the taxi driver was instructed the way to the hotel. I must tell you at this point that the H.K.International Airport is located in Chek Lap Kok in Lantau Island. The other parts of Hong Kong are Kowloon, New Territories and Hong Kong Island. TST is in Kowloon is quite far from the airport---around US$ 40.00 by taxi (including tolls for the journey and return etc etc).
It took about 30 mins from the airport to a congested street of Nathan Road with an array of high rise buildings, crowded streets and touts everywhere--looking to sell either their tailored blazers, contacts of masseurs or else, ready to pick up any tourists to sell a room...
"Sir, one room for HK$ 200.00 a night", was the request when I came out of the taxi.
"Sorry, my room is booked in the day and night hotel", I replied--intimidated the way he was following me.
"Yes, how much they charge you, ?? HK$300.00", was the call from him, still following me.
"No...where is the way for Block "D"?, I asked him.
"That way", he pointed and left quickly!
"Welcome Gaurav to your backpackers' hotel or inn--in this box of 144sq feet, you will spend your next three nights," I told myself.
After a quick shower, Chef Simon came to see me--surprised that he could find that building, Chunking Mansion out of all the mess..
Destination: Ozone Bar, Ritz Carlton Hong Kong.
 |
| Estrella Damm Indedit |
We were sitting there for a couple of hours (in the busy bar) talking about life, work, people and yes, about Hong Kong. The weather was too poor to take some pictures of the magnificent Hong Kong skyline....so afterwards, fixed a time to meet Ivan the following day, bid him bye and walked all the way towards my lodge.
On the way back, array of restaurants..still open at 2230 and catering to their patrons--cantonese/chinese barbecue, noodle houses and what not...I was too tired--all I wanted was to sleep!
May 6th, 2014
Day 2 -- Hong Kong
Though, I woke up early in the morning, I fell asleep again, only to wake up again around 11am! My scheduled time to meet Ivan was at 1130 am, in Times Square HK. I was running late!! I texted him immediately and took a shower, munched a little snack, what I was carrying and took a cab to rush to Times Square.
Time for some Cantonese fiesta today..and it was time for Dim Sum lunch, in Times Square, "Heichinrou" restaurant. His mom and sister were already waiting, so without beating around the bush, it was time to order for lunch. My only advise to Ivan, "Today you just order and I will eat!"..though, I had the request for the roasted goose, crispy pork and all were taken care of.
First stuff was deep fried rice dumpling with assorted meat. Delicious!
Second stuff was deep fried squid with salt and pepper. Unctuously good--almost like a tempura.
Then comes, rice crepes with XO sauce. Just wow and wow!
 | |
| Steamed rice rolls with twisted crullers |
Steamed Prawn dumplings. Heavenly
Baked BBQ Pork Buns---another unctuously tasty bun, right from the oven and then steamed rice rolls with twisted crullers.
All tasty, delicious and the absolute food porn. You need some hell of a skill to make all these stuff (at least I need)...Lord, thank you! I wanted to taste all these food for long.
After having some sweetened bean curd and almond delight (full of almondy goodness) we headed onwards to have some pastries in Zoe pastry shop--just few steps away.
It is a small restaurant, with delicate pastries and cakes---just eat and go. We had millefeuille, hazelnut cake, Mango cheese cake, lychee cake.. (+an espresso for me, so that I dont fall asleep)..all were damn good!
Next stuff-- Tram ride
Operated by Veolia Transport, Hong Kong Tramways have been operating for more than a century (makes me nostalgic--the same tramway we have in Kolkata) with all trams run electricity and are double decked. Hop in and hop off according to your destination but all you pay for any destination and any route just HK$ 2.30...cheap..right?
So, our journey started from Hennessy Road and on towards Hong Kong Central (Forgot to mention, I was in Hong Kong Island) where we stopped to buy something.
Conpoy or Ganbei is dried scallop--base for many cantonese sauces, cooking and also the base for the "XO sauce". I wanted to buy it, for making my own XO sauce and also some other stuff. Intense aroma of scallops--sweet! After buying my stuff and also going through some other shops specialising in dried seafood, we hopped in the tram again, now to go towards Wan Chai district.
I was talking to Ivan about future plans, future in Hong Kong and many many stuff! On the way to Wan chai, just noticed that Hong Kong lacks one resource--Land. The city has money (all you need to know is how to catch them) but there is scarcity of Land. Thats why, people find whatever piece of Land they can get, just build a skyscraper with the smallest rooms possible.And rent or price of an apartment? Well, quite high!
It was almost 5 pm-- Time for High tea!
 |
| HK Toast |
It was a Holiday in Hong Kong--Birthday of Buddha according to their calendar (whichever calendar they are following) so people are out. Offices are closed mostly and a day to celebrate, pray or eat--eat vegetarian or non-vegetarian if you are not Buddhist!
Time was moving slowly for Dinner, to join us for dinner was Ivan's Dad.
 |
| Roasted Goose with Plum Sauce |
 |
| Crispiest Pork .....ever!! |
 |
| Bakewell Tart Ice-cream |
I went back home, bidding Ivan and his family a bye..and being a little drowsy--after all the good food I was eating throughout the day and it was time for me to sleep!
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