Saturday, August 27, 2011

The magic of slow cooking....

"We are now living in the Mcdonaldised Society"
My college professor said this, during our final year classes. Actually, we had a subject on "McDonaldisation" in our final year classes, versus "De-McDonaldisation". Actually it was quite opposed to what we were taught than what the concept of McDonaldised society is..a movement started by Carlo Petrini, popularly known as "Slow Food Movement".
It was the concept of how fast food chains are conquering [or ruining] our palates whilst restaurant--fine dining, casual dining, speciality restaurants are losing their charm. Since, F&B was not my interest[though it was a major], little do I remember about what we were taught. Truly, the fast food restaurants have exploited our appetite with some fried patty, some french fries & some condiments in a couple of seconds. Its tasty, it gives satiety to stomach..& for sometime...you are no more hungry.
I remember trying McDonald's in the year 2001, that too in Delhi [Unfortunately, McDonald could not enter Kolkata-The city of Joy before 2007, due to strict Anti-American Communist regime!!!] & I was blown away that I had one more...

Not drifting from our topic of the day, these fast foods have done more damage than it did any good.On the other hand, slow cooking has been forgotten by many patrons who are admirers of fast foods[Burgers, Sandwiches & so on & so forth]. Now you will find many people queueing in any fast food restaurant than any casual dining or speciality restaurant. Of course, who has been praising slow cooked food for long, will remain to be the loyal consumer [and there are exceptions to it].

Mutton is a meat that I learnt to cook with utmost reverence. Reasons, being its tough connective tissues, which makes it difficult to cook. In spite of having pressure cooker at home, I preferred cooking in slow temperature, especially in an oven. The advantage of cooking in the oven is that you can graduate the temperature, which is a little difficult in stovetop. The end result??Of course melt in the mouth. Another example of slow cooking is our very own Mutton Biryani.

Now slow cooking, is definitely applicable for tough cuts--I am yet to learn any slow cooking recipe of tenderloin or rib-eye steak--the only exception being sous-vide however. Slow cooking methods like braising, stewing can be applicable for beef cuts like chuck,short ribs, flank, shank. Cuts of Lamb like shank, blade etc & similarly stew meats from pork, veal. However, shank of all the meats receive equal treatment, i.e. braising.Another of the pork cut, which I always prefer to braise for at least 2-3 hours, is Pork belly--unless, I am cooking in sous vide process for about 8-10 hours at a regulated temperature of about 72.2 Deg C.

But today, I am going to share a favorite recipe of mine, the last lamb I cooked at home.It is Lamb Shank. Well, there are two types of Lamb Shank you can get from one lamb--the hind one & the fore one. Generally, what you get in your supermarket is the fore shank.As with any cheap, inexpensive cut, like lamb shank the basic procedure remains the same--sear in a hot pan, after seasoning, with some oil until nicely browned. Once well browned, saute the basic mirepoix in the same pan, add some flour[adding flour is completely optional--when I cook, I rarely add any!!]& allow it to brown for sometime[an important part of caramelisation, as once it will simmer, it will release all its flavours to the braising liquid] followed by addition of braising liquid[generally a flavourful stock--try not to use just hot water]& cook slowly for about 2-3 hours, to get a tender meat, with a quite pronounced flavour of the meat[In this case, it being Lamb].Keep the meat aside, while you can strain & finish the sauce with the addition of lemon zest, garlic and parsley[yes, the gremolata seasoning goes well with any braised meat--not limited to only osso bucco!!] & serve with some root vegetables--pearl onions, potato, parsnip & always the classical accompaniment for lamb--beans & peas!!!
Here is the recipe...
Braised Lamb Shank[for 1 portion]
Ingredients:
Lamb Shank-1 no.
Seasoning- to taste, a sprig of rosemary & thyme
Lamb Stock-300 ml[preferably, homemade]
Shallots-50 gm(chopped fine)
Garlic-2 cloves(chopped fine)+4 garlic cloves, roasted & then peeled & roasted
Carrot-100 gm(chopped fine)
Olive Oil-25 ml
Bouquet Garni- 1
Butter-10 gm, chilled
Gremolata seasoning- zest of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 clove garlic chopped and 5 gm of chopped parsley
Method:
1. Season the lamb shank with thyme, rosemary & also salt-pepper. Heat a pan, when it is fairly hot enough & add in the olive oil until very hot. Sear the lamb shank on all sides, until well-browned. Once done, keep it aside in a colander and reserve the juices & drippings.Set the oven temperature to 160 Deg C.
2. In the same pan, saute the shallots, garlic, carrot until nicely browned. Deglaze with the lamb stock & add in the lamb shank & any drippings/juices from the shank & bring it to a boil. Once it comes to a boil,add the bouquet garni cover & cook in the oven for about 1 hour. After 1 hour, remove the bouquet garni & add in the pureed roasted garlic & cook for a further 1.5 hour. Check the doneness, by trying to pull the meat or pierce with a fork--if it is easy to pierce or pull the meat, it is done!!Another method--check if the meat has pulled away from the bone. If it is, then it is done. Once done, remove the shank from the liquid & reduce the liquid in the stove top, until it is of syrupy consistency.
3. Strain the sauce, check the seasoning & add in the gremolata & pour the sauce over the lamb shank. Serve with assorted root vegetables--pearl onions, parsnip, carrot. Alternatively, blue potato puree, sauted beans & peas are good combinations too...


Bon appetit!!!

Friday, August 26, 2011

Too-sweet Arabic sweets...and Arabic Food

Part I
Okk..you know that I am in middle-east for almost 2 years now, Dubai to be exact & have been trying the Arabic foods..which is again controversial. Turks will claim that all arabic food actually originated in Turkey[do they still believe that entire middle east is under the Ottoman empire?], whilst Greeks also have similar food[cold mezze especially] and a growing disputes amongst arabics too--this is lebanese or syrian..that is from Saudi arabia or palestine & so on & so forth...but I don't care as long as I have food to eat, provided its good.

Caveat: When I came here, I was a little taken aback by the arabic [namesake] food. If someone would ask me, if I liked arabic food or not, I never took time to think--the answer was straight, "No, it doesn't appeal my palate."

But now things have changed, when I just tried to taste---instead of rejecting something outright, why not try?If it is unpalatable, well, that is another thing. Gradually I developed a taste for Arabic foods, but again I am selective. I love the fried mezze[kebbeh, sambousek], hommous, moutabel[and I honestly, dont like Labneh]. I am being selective on Lentil soup...since, I cannot eat all lentils!! And if you talk about main course, bring on as long as you make sure they are good--though mostly meat--Lamb Chops, Lamb Kofta[kind of Indian Sheekh kabab], Shish Kebab[okk..Arabic version of Chicken Tikka, but with Beef], & Shish Tawook[Arabic version of Chicken tikka, except Indian spices], or the grilled seafood--Sabream[i.e. Sea Bream], Sultan Ibrahim[threadfin seabream, like a baby red-snapper], Sultan Hedi[i.e., Red Mullet] or can be other local fishes like Hammour[a local grouper] or Shrimps. But there is more arabic food than what has met my eye & now I have developed a keen interest to make arabic food....is it possible to take it to the next level?Or it is best in its rustic form??



Okk...you know that I love sweets too...sweets of all kind from any corner of the world, provided it is upto my palate.Years before, when I saw Baklawa being made, in one the television channels, especially when hot honey was being poured over the freshly baked filo pastry...it was really appealing. Well, honey is good..isn't it?I always used to ask myself, "When will I be able to taste Baklawa?", since, I could never make filo pastry--the excuse being it is difficult to make at home, so I was waiting for the day to come...the day I would be in middle east or to some Greek islands or even Turkey, to taste this heavenly sweets.
So now I am in Dubai & tasted at least 4-5 types of Baklawa[well, there are many types, if you dont know that]--from excellent to disaster. Baklawa, a little crisp on outside & inside sublimely soft & delicious--the making of it is more than what meets the eye...for those, who think that buying a packet of filo pastry from the supermarket freezers & then making the Baklawa is just like a five-minute handjob, again, you will be very wrong my friend--unless, you are an expert.Another favorite of late, is the Umm Ali pudding- a variation of bread pudding, but on a lighter note, since it is solely based on milk[to make more exquisite, use camel or goat milk] and/or cream...and some nuts, but puff pastry is used instead of breads. And then baked!!!

For over the past few weeks, I was craving for some Baklawa & ultimately, I made one...the result was good..and the taste was getting better over time. So, today, I will share with you a recipe...no...two recipes. One is Shish Tawook [Chicken Kebab] & another being my favorite, "Baklawa", with assorted dry fruits.
For the time being, Baklawa for you...
1 lb package phyllo dough, defrosted
3 sticks (12 oz) butter or 1 1/4 cups ghee
2 1/2 cups nuts (walnuts, pine nuts, pistachios, cashews)
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 3/4 cups sugar
1 cup water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon each rose and orange blossom water

1. Clarify the butter: melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Let it boil gently without stirring just until a layer of foam has risen to the surface and the white solids have sunk to the bottom (do not let the solids brown). Remove from the heat and skim off the foam as best you can. Then carefully pour the golden liquid into another container, leaving the solids behind (I normally strain it through a cheesecloth while doing this). Discard the solids. Skip this step if using ghee.
2. Make the syrup: Place the sugar, water, lemon, and blossom water in a pan and bring to a boil so that the sugar dissolves. Let boil 5-10 minutes until syruppy. Set aside to cool.
3. Preheat the oven to 350F. Place the nuts, sugar, and cinnamon in a food processor and grind until they form a coarse meal.
4.Brush the pan with clarified butter or ghee & put a sheet of phyllo, trimming off the edges to the fit the pan. Brush with ghee or clarified butter & put another sheet of phyllo, brushing the top with ghee/clarified butter. Continue doing this, until you put 8 sheets of phyllo pastry. Add in the crushed nuts in an even layer. Top with a phyllo sheet and again brush with ghee/clarified butter & do like this, until you top it off with at least 4 sheets.Using a very sharp knife  score the top of the phyllo in a square or diamond pattern.
5. Place in the oven and bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until deeply golden and crisp but not overly browned. Remove from the oven and immediately pour the cool syrup over the hot baklava. Set aside to cool and absorb completely.Use a knife to cut all the way through the score marks to the bottom of the pan. It is really best if you let it sit overnight, covered with foil, before serving.This will stay fine upto 3 weeks
 



Tuesday, August 2, 2011

The Trauma

The Trauma
Part II
The Trauma of Four Months...

I remember it was December 25, 2008. I was busy at home, cooking for a festive menu for my mom & bro. In the midst of the cooking in the evening, I called up ACE employment services, a career consultant in Mumbai [I was in Kolkata then] to follow up about the date of joining[and also an update on the visa status] for Atlantis, in Palm Jumeirah, Dubai--since I was supposed to join there. I dont remember the person's name I spoke to, however, the news I got from the agent was disappointing, "Sorry Gaurav, Atlantis is no longer in a position to hire people--due to recession in Dubai. Like you, applications of many people have been cancelled." I was speechless for sometime...
I told my mom about it. I dont remember what she said, but she didn't react to it. It was so expected, I felt from the way she behaved. Well, I left Mumbai on October 26th, 2008, for Kolkata for two reasons-1)to fix my passport, which was valid through only till December that year & for applying visa, the passport has to be  valid for the next 6 months and 2)to meet my family members--I was missing them so much.

After coming back to Kolkata, I headed to the passport office & applied for the re-issue of my damaged passport....although after initial hassles & the reluctance of the officials there, it was fixed in a couple of weeks & I sent the new passport copy to the agent[Fortunately, the agent never charged me money!!!] and I was eagerly waiting for a reply from them.... "Do you have any update on my visa?", & the immediate answer would be, "Nothing as of now". In the meantime, I clearly remember, Atlantis had a grand opening & we saw that in the television. It was fascinating to see such a grand opening in the middle of crisis & then what happened, you all know that....

Almost all hotels are busy around Christmas & New year's time, so knocking their doors for a job that time, would be futile. Some would suggest me "Send us an email with your CV" & then never revert back whilst others would reject my plea outright, "We dont have any opening right now". I was getting frustrated..though my mother could understand my emotions & feelings..being jobless !!!

Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai & other cities, where I can get a job, at least a good job!!!That's all I wanted & when things improve, I can try abroad again, I used to tell myself. Finally, there were rays of hope & it was in Chennai....and then one in Vizag. Don't forget, I was almost penny less since almost my savings were spent & I was living on my parents' contribution, which means, I will have to minimise my expenses, to accommodate my needs. No going out with friends [even if they asked me], eating less outside, more at home & no more luxury cooking on weekends, rather eat what is being cooked at home.
***
The first call was from ITC Chola Sheraton, first property of ITC in India looking for a Kitchen Associate but what suprised them[and still people me ask me that same question when they look at my CV], "Why such a short tenure in Grand Hyatt, Mumbai?", I could say nothing else than personal reasons, until I really came to Dubai & revealed the real reason, which I wrote before.  Anyways, coming back to our discussion & after some 30 minutes interview over the phone, with the Executive chef, he called me to Chennai for a food trial. It was good...I made a warm pasta salad, a mushroom soup, grilled fish with pomme de terre ecrasse, asparagus & pomegranate jus & for dessert, white chocolate pannacotta with glazed strawberries. He liked my presentation [which was still disastrous those days!!!] & asked me when can I join? I was a little perplexed since, I could make it & I said, "Only after 1 month,", which meant not before March 3, 2009. I was almost starving till 5 pm..since I had only a cup of tea in the morning, around 9 am!!!

I went out...informed my mom & had some food...and wrote in a friends' networking website, "At least Sun has risen in the South", which was confusing, since Sun rises in the east.

The Park, located in Vishakhapatnam[Vizag in short] also accepted my application for a position but as a Kitchen Assistant & my food trial was good, which was again their menu, a simple grilled chicken with mashed potato & pepper sauce. I was offered that job also. But less salary...so I had to judge which one to go for...the one in Chennai was giving better salary & also accommodation[which I needed anywhere else than in Kolkata], whilst Vizag was disastrous--less salary & that city is expensive to live in.

So finally, I decided to settle in Chennai for the time being....

Yes, another dark spot in my CV for having no job for four months..those four months have been traumatic...God, I dont want such setbacks again in my life....and later I used to think, "Are all these incidents, actually a lesson/blessing in disguise???