Bienvenue au French Cuisine
Date: Some unrecorded date of December, 2010
Place: Kitchen, in some anonymous hotel
Time: Around 2000 hours
The Chef was teaching me how to make a proper wild mushroom soup, since my previous attempt was disastrous & was intimidating to him. He was sautéing the porcini mushrooms in a pan & after sautéing them, he was deglazing the pan with chicken stock & was reserving them separately. “Once you deglaze the pan, you get the juices, bits left behind in the pan & you don’t lose any flavor”, he was telling me. Well, kind of flashback for me, since this is what we learnt in culinary college; “deglaze” with wine, stock or water or whatever, one of the many basics in the French cuisine. The same thing perhaps we do at home, specially using the same pan or wok, when my mother makes the fish curry, after frying the fish. And yes, I thought, I should revisit all the basics of French cuisine. In college, we made all those classical French cuisine [or haute cuisine] “Poulet sauté champignon” or “Tournedos ala portugaise” or simply, the “Poisson meuniere” [substitute of the most popular Sole Meuniere, since Sole is difficult to procure in India].
However, in between the cuisine of Italy seemed to be more attractive & simple than the complex haute French cuisine, when I’d satisfy myself with pasta, risotto, antipasti & all Italian desserts, tiramisu & pannacotta primarily, for example.
But The Chef’s training just reminded me, why I should start focusing again in French cuisine & for the time being, stay separate from la cucina italiana. All the good things in French Cuisine – foie gras [which I have eaten more than I have sliced], butter [And I love a good, buttery mashed potato], fruits de mer [and I love seafood], demiglace, the tenderloin, croissant and dozens of other French cuisine essentials.
Seeing Anthony Bourdain:No reservations & its 1st & 100th episode [both being shot in Paris, by the way], just evoked the feelings of cooking French, not necessarily, haute cuisine, but putting the old ones in a new way, in a simpler way, using different ingredients, substituting fresh tomatoes with sundried ones or cherry tomatoes, for example or the simple button mushroom with some Chinese black mushrooms or shitake mushrooms. I remember once cooking poulet sauté chasseur [i.e. hunter’s style] in one my employment in India, when I used to handle the western kichen, alone for 15 hours a day & sometimes for 16 hours!!!There we needed to cook for 60 reservations for the lunch & dinner buffet, apart from the ala carte orders. Preparing two vegetarian options & two non-vegetarian options apart from the soup[ either veg or non-veg, after consulting with the Chinese kitchen], was really a pain in the ass…sometimes, cooking the same old & boring “crumb-fried fish”, or vegetables in thai red or green curry & sometimes, when time permitted tried cooking the French classics in my way. Poulet sauté chasseur, also known as “Pollo cacciatore” in its Italian form, is a chicken dish, cooked with white wine, shallots, mushrooms, tomatoes & the demiglace of course[i.e. components of Chasseur sauce]. So I changed the form of mushrooms & tomatoes in this case-I used Chinese shitake mushrooms, which gives a meaty & earthy flavour, compared to the less fragrant button mushroom. I used sundried tomatoes in this case, instead of fresh tomatoes, per se. Well, the results…even the executive chef was wondering what was I upto but he couldn’t say anything else. Yes, it was good & better than what I expected..it was robust!!!
Again, mostly French foods are named as per their garnishes, for example, Poisson clamart, where clamart stands for green peas or printanier, which are spring vegetables; thus giving you scope with names & putting the vegetables or sides accordingly. I remember once cooking at home, “Poulet Roti Forestiere”, here forestiere stands for the bounty of forests, primarily mushrooms and potatoes [ideally parmentier potatoes, small dices of potatoes, by the way], bacon apart from that. But, I was a little flexible with potato-- I used pureed potatoes, mushroom ragout & bacon bits.
And that few days before I made a classic, typical from Provence [South France], Marseille to be exact. And it was Bouillabaisse, commonly known as the Mediterranean fish soup with saffron. The fish used is rock fish, rascasse or known as “scorpion fish” is the ideal fish for making this soup, but if I don’t have access to this fish, can’t I enjoy having other fishes from the Mediterranean, which are also added? I will not get into details how it is made in Marseilles, but I will tell my way I made it & here is the recipe. But make sure, you have enough baguette & rouille to finish up the soup. Don’t make it small portions, make at least 4-5 portions & entertain your guests with this soup—no guests??? Well, freeze it then & consume within a month, the way I do…
My Bouillabaisse [For 6]
Ingredients:
For the basic broth
Assorted Mediterranean small fishes- 1.5 kg [I used baby sea bass, large prawns, red mullet & seabream—you can use John Dory, turbot, monkfish tail, if you get]
Olive Oil -200 ml
Leek-1, white part only, thinly sliced
Onion-200 gm, roughly chopped
Garlic- 6 cloves, crushed
Fennel Bulb- 1 whole, roughly chopped
Very ripe Tomatoes- 400 gm, roughly chopped
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Bouquet Garni- 1
For the Soup:
Assorted fishes, the same ones used to make the broth- 1 kg
Garlic-1 clove, finely chopped
Basil- 1 sprig, finely chopped
Tomato – 2 pieces, peeled, deseeded & chopped
Saffron- 1 generous pinch, soaked in 1 tbsp hot water
Olive Oil- 100 ml
Fennel bulb- ½ bulb, finely chopped
Seasoning- to taste
Cayenne Pepper- to taste
Rouille- as required
Baguette- as required
Method:-
The Basic Broth:
1. Gut the fishes, clean & chop them roughly. Devein the prawns but don’t peel. Keep the heads intact of all the fishes, but remove the gills.
2. Heat the oil in a stockpot & sauté the leek, onion, fennel, garlic until lightly colored. Add in the chopped tomatoes, followed by the fish & sweat the vegetables & fish for about 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently.
3. Add the fish stock, bring to a boil & then lower the heat & simmer for about 40-45 minutes. Remove from the heat & leave it to stand for 20 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse.
4. Pass the fish through a foodmill/ mouli or through a drum sieve, rubbing with the back of a ladle. Discard the bones & other debris. If you want to make it more refine, pass it through a fine sieve. Now this is the broth or the base for making the soup, which will carry quite sweet flavour. If you want to have it as it is, you may or finish with a touch of cream. For the Soup, see the next step.
The Soup:
1. Clean the soup for garnishes-cut them into fillets, deboned & cut into bite sized chunks.
2. Heat all but 25 ml of olive oil & sauté garlic, tomato, fennel until lightly colored & add in the broth & bring it to a boil. Add in the reserved fish chunks, saffron & season and simmer for 5-6 minutes until the fishes are cooked.
3. Serve with the reserved olive oil, drizzled on top & with enough baguette & rouille[mayonnaise with garlic, cayenne pepper & saffron] sauce on side.
In Marseille, also known as the fishermen’s stew/soup, since they made the stew out of the fishes they couldn’t sell [the ugly scorpion fish being the typical addition] is served in two ways—the broth in one bowl & the fish chunks on the other, but I deviated from it. Former Chef Marco Pierre White went a step further---he reduced the broth further & named it as “Bouillabaisse sauce”…isn’t that creative??
[Note to Self: Make plans to visit France—this year or next year, especially Paris, Lyon & Provence.]
There are more to come..and for the time being Bon Appétit…
Date: Some unrecorded date of December, 2010
Place: Kitchen, in some anonymous hotel
Time: Around 2000 hours
The Chef was teaching me how to make a proper wild mushroom soup, since my previous attempt was disastrous & was intimidating to him. He was sautéing the porcini mushrooms in a pan & after sautéing them, he was deglazing the pan with chicken stock & was reserving them separately. “Once you deglaze the pan, you get the juices, bits left behind in the pan & you don’t lose any flavor”, he was telling me. Well, kind of flashback for me, since this is what we learnt in culinary college; “deglaze” with wine, stock or water or whatever, one of the many basics in the French cuisine. The same thing perhaps we do at home, specially using the same pan or wok, when my mother makes the fish curry, after frying the fish. And yes, I thought, I should revisit all the basics of French cuisine. In college, we made all those classical French cuisine [or haute cuisine] “Poulet sauté champignon” or “Tournedos ala portugaise” or simply, the “Poisson meuniere” [substitute of the most popular Sole Meuniere, since Sole is difficult to procure in India].
However, in between the cuisine of Italy seemed to be more attractive & simple than the complex haute French cuisine, when I’d satisfy myself with pasta, risotto, antipasti & all Italian desserts, tiramisu & pannacotta primarily, for example.
But The Chef’s training just reminded me, why I should start focusing again in French cuisine & for the time being, stay separate from la cucina italiana. All the good things in French Cuisine – foie gras [which I have eaten more than I have sliced], butter [And I love a good, buttery mashed potato], fruits de mer [and I love seafood], demiglace, the tenderloin, croissant and dozens of other French cuisine essentials.
Seeing Anthony Bourdain:No reservations & its 1st & 100th episode [both being shot in Paris, by the way], just evoked the feelings of cooking French, not necessarily, haute cuisine, but putting the old ones in a new way, in a simpler way, using different ingredients, substituting fresh tomatoes with sundried ones or cherry tomatoes, for example or the simple button mushroom with some Chinese black mushrooms or shitake mushrooms. I remember once cooking poulet sauté chasseur [i.e. hunter’s style] in one my employment in India, when I used to handle the western kichen, alone for 15 hours a day & sometimes for 16 hours!!!There we needed to cook for 60 reservations for the lunch & dinner buffet, apart from the ala carte orders. Preparing two vegetarian options & two non-vegetarian options apart from the soup[ either veg or non-veg, after consulting with the Chinese kitchen], was really a pain in the ass…sometimes, cooking the same old & boring “crumb-fried fish”, or vegetables in thai red or green curry & sometimes, when time permitted tried cooking the French classics in my way. Poulet sauté chasseur, also known as “Pollo cacciatore” in its Italian form, is a chicken dish, cooked with white wine, shallots, mushrooms, tomatoes & the demiglace of course[i.e. components of Chasseur sauce]. So I changed the form of mushrooms & tomatoes in this case-I used Chinese shitake mushrooms, which gives a meaty & earthy flavour, compared to the less fragrant button mushroom. I used sundried tomatoes in this case, instead of fresh tomatoes, per se. Well, the results…even the executive chef was wondering what was I upto but he couldn’t say anything else. Yes, it was good & better than what I expected..it was robust!!!
Again, mostly French foods are named as per their garnishes, for example, Poisson clamart, where clamart stands for green peas or printanier, which are spring vegetables; thus giving you scope with names & putting the vegetables or sides accordingly. I remember once cooking at home, “Poulet Roti Forestiere”, here forestiere stands for the bounty of forests, primarily mushrooms and potatoes [ideally parmentier potatoes, small dices of potatoes, by the way], bacon apart from that. But, I was a little flexible with potato-- I used pureed potatoes, mushroom ragout & bacon bits.
And that few days before I made a classic, typical from Provence [South France], Marseille to be exact. And it was Bouillabaisse, commonly known as the Mediterranean fish soup with saffron. The fish used is rock fish, rascasse or known as “scorpion fish” is the ideal fish for making this soup, but if I don’t have access to this fish, can’t I enjoy having other fishes from the Mediterranean, which are also added? I will not get into details how it is made in Marseilles, but I will tell my way I made it & here is the recipe. But make sure, you have enough baguette & rouille to finish up the soup. Don’t make it small portions, make at least 4-5 portions & entertain your guests with this soup—no guests??? Well, freeze it then & consume within a month, the way I do…
My Bouillabaisse [For 6]
Ingredients:
For the basic broth
Assorted Mediterranean small fishes- 1.5 kg [I used baby sea bass, large prawns, red mullet & seabream—you can use John Dory, turbot, monkfish tail, if you get]
Olive Oil -200 ml
Leek-1, white part only, thinly sliced
Onion-200 gm, roughly chopped
Garlic- 6 cloves, crushed
Fennel Bulb- 1 whole, roughly chopped
Very ripe Tomatoes- 400 gm, roughly chopped
Bouquet Garni- 1Fish Stock- 3 liter
Assorted fishes, the same ones used to make the broth- 1 kg
Garlic-1 clove, finely chopped
Basil- 1 sprig, finely chopped
Tomato – 2 pieces, peeled, deseeded & chopped
Saffron- 1 generous pinch, soaked in 1 tbsp hot water
Olive Oil- 100 ml
Fennel bulb- ½ bulb, finely chopped
Seasoning- to taste
Cayenne Pepper- to taste
Rouille- as required
Baguette- as required
Method:-
The Basic Broth:
1. Gut the fishes, clean & chop them roughly. Devein the prawns but don’t peel. Keep the heads intact of all the fishes, but remove the gills.
2. Heat the oil in a stockpot & sauté the leek, onion, fennel, garlic until lightly colored. Add in the chopped tomatoes, followed by the fish & sweat the vegetables & fish for about 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently.
3. Add the fish stock, bring to a boil & then lower the heat & simmer for about 40-45 minutes. Remove from the heat & leave it to stand for 20 minutes to allow the flavours to infuse.
4. Pass the fish through a foodmill/ mouli or through a drum sieve, rubbing with the back of a ladle. Discard the bones & other debris. If you want to make it more refine, pass it through a fine sieve. Now this is the broth or the base for making the soup, which will carry quite sweet flavour. If you want to have it as it is, you may or finish with a touch of cream. For the Soup, see the next step.
The Soup:
1. Clean the soup for garnishes-cut them into fillets, deboned & cut into bite sized chunks.
2. Heat all but 25 ml of olive oil & sauté garlic, tomato, fennel until lightly colored & add in the broth & bring it to a boil. Add in the reserved fish chunks, saffron & season and simmer for 5-6 minutes until the fishes are cooked.
3. Serve with the reserved olive oil, drizzled on top & with enough baguette & rouille[mayonnaise with garlic, cayenne pepper & saffron] sauce on side.
In Marseille, also known as the fishermen’s stew/soup, since they made the stew out of the fishes they couldn’t sell [the ugly scorpion fish being the typical addition] is served in two ways—the broth in one bowl & the fish chunks on the other, but I deviated from it. Former Chef Marco Pierre White went a step further---he reduced the broth further & named it as “Bouillabaisse sauce”…isn’t that creative??
[Note to Self: Make plans to visit France—this year or next year, especially Paris, Lyon & Provence.]
There are more to come..and for the time being Bon Appétit…
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