Cooking Sous-vide & cooking slow..Part I

Sous-vide cooking...
When I first read this title, after coming to Dubai[Not many chefs profess this method in India--so I was unaware of this term!!!] I was really intrigued. "Sous" which means "Under" & "Vide", vaccum. Cooking in vaccum..but how is that possible?In due course, I came across the book by the owner of "The French Laundry" in CA & "Per Se" in NYC, Chef Thomas Keller, "Cooking Under pressure", thus relating to the same concept, i.e. Sous Vide.

Practising at home...
Well, trying anything new is my innate nature. Cooking sous vide, which I have never practised as of now, I thought of trying it today for my dinner...for my belated thanksgiving dinner. For thanksgiving, I planned to cook duck for the main course, however, I changed my mind & moved to pork belly, a fatty cut, generally used for rendering fat or cut for bacon, lard etc. Pork is a meat, which becomes dry pretty easily, specially if roasted, however, authorities claim that if you soak it in brine for 2-3 hours, the resultant meat is tender. Hmm...how about cooking pork belly sous vide for my thanksgiving???
Yesterday evening, after coming back from work, I portioned out the pork belly [which was already thawed] and then proceeded towards making my jus. Few of the merits of cooking meat sous-vide is that you dont lose any of the flavours. Secondly, the natural flavour of the meat is more pronounced & finally due to slow cooking, chances of overcooking the food is less.Tough cuts, like brisket/cartella, topside, short-rib etc can be cooked taking the advantage of this cooking...rather anything can be cooked using the sous vide method.
Limitations can be equipment. Yes, if you dont have a temperature controlling device, it is difficult to keep a steady temperature of say 54 Deg C or 65 Deg C.Remember, the thumbrule, your ultimate goal is the internal temperature of doneness, which is your preference. Meats like pork, chicken are always well-done, on the other hand, lamb, beef, as per your preference.
Since I dont have a vaccum pack machine, ziplock bags are the only option for me. After my jus was prepared, I put the pork belly in individual ziplock bags, followed by a ladle of jus & generous sprinkle of fleur de sel[Seasalt from Brittany, France] & crushed pepper, with a sprig of thyme & little bits of cinnamon stick....and the bag is locked!!!
Now time for them to be cooked at 70 Deg C, for 7-8 hours. Keeping the temperature low is necessary, as at no cost, I would like to overcook my food!!!I had a thermometer, which helped me to monitor the temperature of the water. So I went to sleep, at 2 am, leaving them to be cooked sous vide overnight for 7-8 hours.

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I got up at 10 am & found them to be in pretty same temperature &  took them off the hot water bath[i.e. the filled zip lock bags!!!] & put them in chilled water for easy cooling. The result was a well-done pork, with gelee like sauce.Next is finishing them for plating/presentation.

I took off the pork belly from the bag & put them in a hot pan, fat side down, to make the skin crisp & also heat it through. In the meanwhile, the gelee is heated in a saucepan for making the corresponding sauce. I heated the pork belly through & briefly cook in the oven for 10 minutes & then it goes to the plate. The result..well, can only be described by the one who has eaten it. It was remarkably tender, even though, it look like roasted/grilled. None of the pork flavour, i.e. umami was sacrificed due to the cooking. You may also want to try..it takes time, but it is worth the time.

Five months in the financial hub of India...Mumbai...

"Ae dil hai mushkil, jeena yahan,
zara hatke, zara bachke yeh hai bambai meri jaan....."
This is a very popular song on the financial capital of India, Mumbai and the song carries this note that living in Mumbai is a little difficult as you have to be careful in my dear city Mumbai.
I first visited Mumbai in January 2008 for a couple of days but didn't know to join the biggest hotel in the country, Grand Hyatt Mumbai[soon it will be 2nd biggest hotel, as ITC Grand Chola opens in Chennai] I would have to move there.
It was the first time, that I had to stay away from home, for professional reasons, so first & foremost, I had to look out for a place, to live. Mumbai is one of the most expensive cities in the country so finding an accommodation was difficult, with the limited salary I had[back then, it was around US$130 a month!!!]. So after a lot of runaround, I was able to find one, that too on the compulsion of a friend[or another fake friend????]I started living in that apartment, with limited facilities. The rent being close to US$ 90, was too much for me, since I had other expenses like, food[food is served to employees on duty!!], internet[another addiction], cell phone...less expenses for conveyance, since I had my accommodation next to my hotel.
Work was going nice along, else long hours at work..from 12 hrs to 14-16 hrs in any given day. From 7 pm[i.e. from 6:30 pm] till 8 am the following morning & then at 2:30 pm the same day...yes, the schedule was this hectic, but I managed to perform...though my sous chef used to shout extra to me than anyone else. Why????Well, the excuse was "You can do better...."
Fortunately, Ramakrishna Mission Ashrama, in Khar was located pretty close to my place;whereas, I used to stay in Santa Cruz East, & the Ashrama was in Khar West. Somtimes, I used to take an auto, sometimes, half-bus, half-on foot...or sometimes, on foot..there, I used to find solace, some emotional support, mental peace, when I used to frequent that place. Seldom, I failed attending the Ramanam Sankirtan on Ekadashi days, followed by the prasad which generally used to comprise, Jalebi[my favourite] & some fruits. But perhaps, than any place else, one would either find me at work...or sometimes at home..
With 3 offs in 15 days, life was in control...never to extremes. I remember, with two days off at a stretch, I went to visit Nasik, Shirdi & Shani Shingnapur--pretty famous places for pilgrimage from Mumbai. Though the journey was hectic, as most of the times, I was sleeping, in the bus or train, but enjoyed it to the fullest...and I love to travel....
Food was pretty much ok--since my accomodation didn't have facilities of cooking, most of the times, I used to buy food from outside.Generally on my day offs, my meal was simple egg curry with some chapati[around 50 cents!!] or Mixed Noodles[75 cents] or ChannaMasala-Roti[50 cents!!!]
Boozing was absolutely No-No in these months...since I was concentrating more on work, more on saving money[despite my intentions, I seldom could, so my mom used to send me money from Kolkata...such a pitiful situation...]

In the meanwhile, I got an employment offer from Atlantis the palm, Dubai when I had to put my resignation. I was happy & excited to get rid of the expensive Mumbai, but the old saying goes perfect...Man proposes but God disposes....God had different plans for me...I came back home...in just five months...to celebrate Diwali at home, whilst trip to Dubai was deferred due to recession...

After Mumbai, I moved to Chennai, in between, I was without job for four months, on which I will write soon....

The love story of Neil...Part I

[This is just another cooked up story--basically a fictitious character, Neil sharing an imaginary conversation of his love story with the blogger. Any incidents, character resembling with real,should be considered purely co-incidental!! Read in your own risk...blogger will be least responsible...]
"Gaurav,now I have mixed emotions--I feel nice & I am feeling hurt also, after all this incidents that took place", Neil was telling me yesterday.
"Hmmm.., "with my usual tone, I added, "What are the incidents,if you can briefly tell me---you being so close to me, keep on hiding things for me....", I complained.
"Well Gaurav, I should have told you long back, since I was thinking positive--in between I lost interest in that girl & finally some funny incidents ..you know I dont know what to say....well, it happened all last October, 2009..when I came to this place, .......(Neil continues his story)
Umm..well, Neil, a smart chap of 25 is from Auckland, i.e. from New Zealand & has moved to Kent, for professional reasons, leaving his mother, sibling in his hometown. Neil in spite of being smart, is shy, sometimes crazy..sometimes funny, sometimes too serious[though he claims, he is never serious] & one more without which he'd remain incomplete...talkative!!!

Neil found this excellent opportunity as a software developer, Sr.Software developer for the DFG Inc. & started working from October 2009.Neil being a dog person[i.e. friendly], came across this girl,who was beautiful then[Neil now says he was blind then....lols]. Her name....Melissa Bacher, a German girl. Neil for no reason, hates German girls, he was blinded by her beauty."Yes, I dont know, what happened to me then, I overlooked all her flaws--I liked her as a human being..not as per statistics!!", which he told me & I believed him.

Anyways, his likeness for her increased in the coming days & it took a lot of courage for him to ask her out[Note, I already said he is shy!!!]. On the first case, she rejected outright by giving some false excuses. Neil felt, "I tried & failed...but I didn't fail to try..may be next time".
Neil then asked her face to face, to which Melissa said, she may, but will let him know about the time & place. Neil was not in control of himself, but was controlled by the girl[yes, he likes her...but she..well, we'll judge that later, as the story moves on...]
Melissa is not new in this place, she has been working there as Sr. Software Engineer for a couple of years or so, and she knows all the places around where they can hang out for an evening. After all a guy has asked a girl out...
On the stipulated day, they went out on a date. Neil recalls the day, "It was December 28, 2009, we went to the theater to see this movie.....". Melissa did some little shopping, whilst Neil purchased some books[Neil's alltime favorite!!!], followed by the movie & then dinner together in a nearby Italian restaurant[And Neil loves Italian food, whilst Melissa is little skeptical about it!!!!].
Neil obviously felt better after this date, since it was his first date at a new place with a new girl. His previous dates & blind dates, in his own country were all disastrous, as per him. Well, Neil suddenly felt this girl is a kinda crack,"You know Gaurav, we went together the previous day & the following day, she is like she doesn't even know, as if I am like another stranger".
Before going out on another date[Neil tried to hurry & express the magic words to the german lady, "Iche liebe diche",], Melissa suddenly fell ill.Co-incidentally,Melissa used to stay just few doors away from that of Neil's. Neil thought of visiting her personally & take care of her needs, but Neil was thinking whether it would be right or wrong....so he tried to "take care" of her by texting. But that doesn't help much. Melissa stopped replying, & Neil was feeling guilty, "I wish I visited her then....", Neil lamented.Neil went to visit her personally when she resumed at work & dropped her to her apartment & asking if she needed anything more. Melissa is cunning & asked if Neil can buy her some food..& Neil did it whole heartedly. Neil used to think, "Hmmm..she likes me...I think so..."...

After a couple of weeks, Neil stopped talking to her & tried to see, if she is interested. She tried to talk to him, but Neil was least interested to talk to her[Why such pretence???]. Melissa perhaps was planning something else, & finally Melissa was successful...by asking him out. Neil, felt, well..."Hmm...she likes me..."
Again they went...but it seemed their options are limited in a city like Kent. They just repeated the same thing--movie, eating together, & light shopping...
The following day, perhaps Neil's blackday in his life...He got involved in a bad scandal at work & Neil got Melissa for support. "I cannot forget that day, but inspite of all wrong doings by Melissa later, I am still grateful to her, for providing all mental support that day," Neil comments.
Neil's condition was poor for a couple of days, since the scandal was haunting him day & night. By the way, Neil always used to think that another Sr. Software Engineer, Keith has got some affair with Melissa. Keith from Wellington, New Zealand. And oneday, his suspicion was correct."Well, why do you think so???", I asked Neil.
Neil replied, "Oneday I asked Melissa out, after I returned from work. Melissa was already out with Keith & was asking me, if I can join them.I joined them in the nearby theater & then we're deciding which movie to see. The movie that Keith proposed, I already saw that with Melissa, so I wanted to see the other one. Melissa said, "I dont mind seeing that movie again." It was too much for me..so I decided to walk away outright.....".

In due course, Neil was not able to look into these "fine details", but thought that Melissa used to like her [poor Neil!!!] and the day came when Melissa thought of visiting her ailing mother in Frankfurt. Neil assumed that Melissa will not return back & asked her out for a dinner. Melissa just pretended that she was busy & rejected the dinner right away...

In a couple of months, she came back from holidays, whilst Neil got a new boss, Abraham. Neil loves to share his details with everyone, even his boss too. Abraham borrowed his ears to him[Abraham gets turned on by German women, though he has no interest in Melissa, an initial confession!!]Well, everything was going fine....until, oneday Neil fell down from the stairs & fractured his leg. Abraham told Melissa about it, but Melissa showed little interest on what had happened. Then, Neil could understand whether Melissa really liked her not...and by the grace of God, Neil recovered pretty fast & at work, Melissa asked her, "Hey, how is your leg?", Neil just replied, "Yeah its ok", Melissa told her co-worker,"Neil is so arrogant".
Is Neil really arrogant, who I know for years. Well, it depends on the person, he is with. If the person is nice, Neil is super nice, if the person has arrogance, Neil knows how can he display his arrogance.

Things kept on continuing, when it was Neil's turn to visit his family, back in Auckland. His trip was very short though, when he did some real heavy dating back in his country, of course with some beauties but unfortunately, he had to resume early!!But this time, Neil had little interest for Melissa..."Neil has changed,"Melissa was complaining to her co-worker. Yes, Neil couldn't put himself enough for granted. Melissa asked her out, Neil just gave her company....and thats it...!!!He had no intention of spending time together for long hours....hopefully Melissa understood it. Again, Melissa called her on a small party at her place, Neil just went there as a "guest", not as a friend or anything else, he attended & wrapped up soon!!! Neil completely lost interest in Melissa..."If Melissa is interested, she would come to me & if she is destined for me", Neil was telling.

In the meanwhile, Melissa felt her present place doesn't have much opportunities & thought of moving elsewhere, Beijing. She told Neil only once, whilst Neil just wanted her to leave anywhere but Kent. Through confirmed sources Neil got to know, Melissa has put down her papers, still, he pretended as if he doesn't know about it, until Melissa told her. Finally, the day came when Melissa left for good. Neil didn't want to be a part of it, her farewell and God assisted him in fulfilling his wish, when he was not informed about her farewell. Inside, Neil felt a little hurt, but it was too little to be measured. Melissa headed towards Beijing, China.  "I never felt better like this before, but certain events about which I got to know, I was feeling a little bad...", Neil told me.
"What was it, after Melissa left?", I asked.
"You know, I was pretty much close to my boss, who knew everything about me. I dont know, but I got to know that he expressed his interest in Melissa & they slept onenight....", it was worth-seeing Neil's face when he was uttering these words.
"Hmmm...well, Neil...you can't do anything...nor I can do. She is gone for your good, for your betterment. She was not looking for a partner of you--even if she had, you were thrown away long back. She was looking for someone who could pay her some attention and thats it. Whenever, you succeeded in that, i.e. paying her attention, her mission was accomplished!!! Good that she didn't become a part of your life, else, your life would have definitely worsened. But dont chase her..."I said.
"You are right Gaurav....but now I am having mixed emotions. Anyways, these days I keep distance from my boss & such events, incidents will help to maintain the same distance or even more incidents. But what pisses me off, is that practise what you preach..or do what you say. He told me, he finds Melissa lazy, dislikes her, but what he did, was ultimately opposite.......", Neil went to fetch some water for himself.

***

Hopefully, the story ends here..Neil will definitely not miss Melissa. This was a great experience, but now Neil has stopped asking girls out & neither he believes anyone[I hope Neil trusts me!!!! :)]Girls like Melissa are almost everywhere, they are like leaves of fall, found everywhere. But a true gem, like diamond is precious and rare. Melissa just played with Neil's heart [or love] for few months & in the end, she also insulted him...Neil, being completely blinded by love, couldn't do anything either. "God will take care of everything, "Neil used to say. Definitely, God will take care..he will punish & reward judging on people's action.
And Keith??He will miss Melissa & may be, he will chase her to Beijing. Abraham...such men should never be trusted, but now Neil wants a way out..where there will be no Abraham, no Keith, no Melissa. Only Neil...sounds like Utopia!!!
All I can pray to God that oneday, Neil will find someone, who will understand Neil, who will know Neil's value & love him for what he is-not for what he has....

In search of the perfect bolognese

I think I made the first pasta at home[real fresh homemade pasta] in 1999, when I was in Std. 8, 11 years before. The sauce was similar to aglio-olio peperoncino, however, I was craving for some good sauce.
After joining the hotel managment institute, I was keen to known about different cuisines & Italian cuisine was one of interests[Perhaps, I can talk more on Italian cuisine, than Indian cuisine] and one fine day, I was doing a research on how many sauces are there for pasta, traditional ones & then the contemporary ones.
Bolognese or the meat ragu caught my attention.In simplest terms, it is a meat sauce, originates from the Bologna, from the gastronomic province of Italy--Emilia Romagna.Emilia Romagna is so important that almost all famed Italian products are from here--Balsamic Vinegar from Modena, Parmiggiano Reggiano & Prosciutto di Parma from Parma & so is Ragu alla Bologna & Mortadella from Bologna.
Once I joined training, a  part of the hotel management, I asked a chef on how to make a good Bolognese sauce, & he gave a recipe...which had a lot of tomatoes. The basic mirepoix, including carrots[in Italy, you say soffritto!!!]+200 gm of tomato puree+450 gm of minced meat[ideally beef], +herbs like basil etc, +1/2 cup red wine.
I tried this at home obviously, initially using minced chicken & later with minced mutton, but the sauce had a more tomato flavour in it.

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In the meanwhile, I was on restricted diet, due to high purine level in my blood, so during my employment in Grand Hyatt, I never had the opportunity to try their version of the bolognese. When I moved to Chennai & started working in Chola Sheraton, I had first experience of making a lot of sauces, bolognese being one of them. The sauce was more tomato-ey, than meaty. Oneday the exe.chef was asking me whether it is minced by machine or minced by hand. I said, "Yes, chef...the meat is minced by machine."He replied, "For bolognese, you should use meat, minced by hand[or manual mince]...."

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Coming to Dubai, I restarted eating beef, but obviously in moderation. The other day I was browsing through my italian cuisine notes, books & came across, the addition of milk/cream in the basic bolognese. Strikingly, one the recipe says using two meats, beef & additional meat can be pork, specially pork sausage meat.I knew it long back that North Italians use more of cream, milk, butter[i.e. abundance of dairy products..North Italians are rich], whilst down South, Olive oil is preferred, in mostly poor man's table..la cucina povera.
While doing  a little research both in the books & internet, I came across two versions of Ragu--Bolognese & Napolitana. In 1982, the recipe of Bolognese was registered & for your sake, I am putting it here.
Ingredients

300 g beef cartella (thin beef skirt)
150 g pancetta, dried
50 g carrot
50 g celery stalk
50 g onion
5 spoons tomato sauce or 20 g triple tomato extract
1 cup (250 mL) whole milk
Half cup white or red wine, dry and not frizzante
Salt and pepper, to taste.

Procedure
The pancetta, cut into little cubes and chopped with a mezzaluna chopping knife, is melted in a saucepan; the vegetables, once again well chopped with the mezzaluna, are then added and everything is left to stew softly. Next the ground beef is added and is left on the stovetop, while being stirred constantly, until it sputters. The wine and the tomato cut with a little broth are added and everything left to simmer for around two hours, adding little by little the milk and adjusting the salt and black pepper. Optional but advisable is the addition of the panna di cottura of a litre of whole milk at the end of the cooking.

Strictly, following the recipe, I made it at home & the result was heavenly...only the flavour of meat, with a little hint of soffritto & tomato. The Neapolitan version, is little more tomato-ey & addition of herbs like basilico etc. If you want to make it little zesty..why not put some fresh orange juice or some finely chopped orange pulp??You will never be taken aback with the result....
 
Spagbol
Perhaps, outside Italy, this is more popular than anywhere else, also known as Spaghetti Bolognese around the world. I have seen people ordering Spaghetti Bolognese with delight, but ideally, bolognese is eaten with fresh pasta, which will hold the sauce. Prime examples can be tagliatelle, fettuccine, or even lasagne. The Neapolitan version, which has more tomato in it, seems to fit for Spaghetti. Even penne or fusilli is good with bolognese.
 
This much for now...Buon apetito!!!